S2 7.9 Meter Class Association

I have no complaints with my Garhauer. Plenty of power (12:1). Yes, it is a little heavy, but indestructable, unlike some of the ultralight and ultraexpensive vangs I have seen collapse on bigger boats in my PHRF fleet.

I've had one, for 4 years now. Only complaint is that it was a little snug between the cheek plates; I had to shim open the teak boards about .030" to improve the fit. The part that sticks in the water is dimensionally identical to my original. His rudders are considerably lighter than the aver...

According to RRS 50.2, any pole to any sail must be attached to the mast. One pole at a time allowed.

I haven't actually tried this but it might work: 1. Remove keel access covers, attach a D-shackle to the tang where the pin goes (should be able to reach if not more than 1/2 down). 2. Get a scissor jack and straddle the keel opening with it (may need a board underneath for proper support). 3. Tie a...

Don't know about the class-legal question since I race PHRF - but we have installed a rope bridle, which is tied off on each end to the toe rails, and have a snatch block clipped to the bridle that we run the downhaul line through, and then aft through the block at the base of the mast. This gives a...

I've repaired damage in this area more than once. I don't think it takes a particularly hard grounding to have the potential for damage, and it may not be the initial hit that does it, since the top of the board is fully seated in its "socket" when it's all the way down. If you're still bo...

Somwhere in the old posts at http://www.boatsit.com/discus/messages/106/106.html, is a message from someone who successfully lifted their boat from the shroud chainplates and the toe rail. Keep in mind that the toe rail is screwed, not bolted to the hull - multiple attachment points to the rail on e...

For less than $10 you can get what you need for the top channel at Lowe's. It's a C-channel plastic extrusion that is sold as a cap material for plastic latticework. You'll need 2 8-foot pieces. Don't buy the Home Depot version ("Tuff-Lite"), the channel is too narrow for the hatch slides....

My rudder assembly weighs 52 lb - 25 lb for the blade itself. This is not the original; that one weighed 33 lb but has broken twice in 10 years. The new blade is laminated red cedar/vacuum-bagged epoxy-fiberglass. The shape is identical to the original. The cost (from Phil's Foils) was less than hal...

As I understand it there is not much point in using a flicker unless you can also switch to a cascade system. There is not enough "throw" in the pinch-style to make it work without compromising the ability to bend the mast. I put on a 3/16" Vectran backstay 5 yrs ago. It broke in year...

Fleck's concern is valid. My sailmaker tells me the kicker will only work if I switch to a cascade purchase backstay - you cannot generate enough slack with the pinch type to pull the line clear of the sail, or if you can, there's not any purchase left to bend the mast with the pincher.

My rudder (which has broken twice over the past 4 years) from hull #211 weighs about 35 lb, as does the rudder I borrowed from #406. I have heard that somewhere around #300, S2 switched builders for the rudder to Harken (?) and these hold up much better. Phil's Foils is building me a red cedar/fiber...