So, I'm in the middle of a major recore...

[Ripper]

Do class rules restrict me to using balsa or can I do foam?

For those interested I will post pics.
I do love the boat hence the TLC.

Status - coachroof is stripped, new bulkheads being made, side-decks are next.

Opinions are welcome.
Tom, it's on it's way.

[Tom Elsen]

OK, technically the class rule which prohibits all changes except those expressedly permitted would not allow foam. But since the foam is likely heavier than the balsa, and since I'm pretty sure that none of us will be taking core samples of your boat...I'll happily look the other way and wish you all the best with the project.
Good luck

[dave]

Ripper, remember that no other core material has the compression strength, rigidity, BOND strength, light weight AND low cost of balsa core. All rolled up into one material, it's hard to beat if you seal and maintain.

[Ripper]

Thanks Dave, I wholeheartedly agree.

It was just an option. Seems like I'm going to go the balsa route. I'm told by an informed source the trick is to open up the seams on a rounded surface, slop in the epoxy then slap it on. This creates an epoxy barrier between each balsa piece and eliminates moisture migrating to other adjacent pieces. The negative is the cost of extra resin.

Since I'm doing it all from below, I thought I could get away from a real messy job and go with foam.

Once I'm done, the boat should last longer than I do. Mind you we really do punish the boat while racing.

Wish me luck.

Richard
Toronto

[dave]

The "fix" that you describe is not fool proof and it assumes that water WILL enter. This is the wrong approach to the problem, IMHO. I have replaced LOTS of balsa core in my career. There is much on this site that I have written about doing it correctly and then over drilling, filling and redrilling ALL holes that go through thr balsa core. If you do this extra step NO water can migrate into the core even if the mounting holes is caulked baddly or not at all !!!

[Ripper]

Dave

I agree, overdrilling, filling and redrilling ALL holes is a must. I was just noting the additional step of saturating the core with epoxy being that extra step in eliminating any possible water migration.

Trust me, I only intend to do this project once.

Thanks for your input, it's exactly why I'm here.

[dave]

I guess my point was that if you overdrill and fill everything the other step isn't needed and adds weight. You are right on target about doing the job ONCE and doing it right, the only way to do anything!

[Marionete]

I recently completed some extensive core repairs to the deck, cockpit and mast step. I purchased 1/2 inch foam and lots of other supplies from Eastern Burlap in Norfolk. Great guys to deal with and knowledgable too.

When laying up from underside surfaces, I developed a system to keep the new foam pressed against the no-skid by adding a layer of wax paper under the foam, and then using a 2 in thick cushion foam under the wax paper. THe wax paper keeps the resin from dripping everywhere and needs to be peeled off as the resin kicks.

Under the cushion foam, I used a section of plywood and then jammed some wood shims in place to hold it in place once the positioning was right.

In addition to bowing the triple-cut to gain saturation, I also applied a liberal coat of resin to the underside of the deck no-skid, and then mixed up another batch with some thickening agent such as silica or high density filler - spreading that on the already wet foam. I had two areas about 10 inches by 20, another 13 by 18, and then half the cockpit from the traveler aft.

I also redid the mast step using coosa board high density synthetic plywood - Bluewater 26, 3/8 inch material.

We'll be ready to race in April 2008!

Runaway
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