We recently acquired #238 Yellow Jacket and are in the midst of a nice overhaul. I have some questions and I would love to get some help!
1) the locking pin hole in the rudder- about 1/2" in diameter, is worn. It is no longer round. First, I need a replacement pin. This is the one that holds the rudder in the down position. Also, I was thinking about filling the hole with Marine Tex and then redrilling a fresh hole. Any thoughts for or against this idea?
2) The rig is apparently not original and has no anchor or masthead light. I hate to drill holes in the side of the mast for the masthead light, and we're struggling with finding a way to wire the anchor, windex, and masthead lights. We're out of switches on the panel. Any recommendations? Do we really need the masthead/deck light? Is there a better spot to drill a new hole for the wires to come out (side versus front)?
New owner with miscellaneous questions
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Welcome to the fleet, you've got a great boat.
To answer your questions:
yes, you can fill the hole, and re-drill using marine tex, or any other good epoxy filler. Drill the hole to fit a bic stick ballpint pen. Use the pen as your hold down pin, it will break if you run aground, and protect your rudder from damage. Many of us have learned this trick the hard way.
The S2 mast was originally wired with a simple mast top anchoring light, and a steaming light on the front of the mast just above the spreaders.
The Sea Dog model 40 works well up top, and I've got a perko masthead on the front of my mast replacing the original unit that was missing when I got my boat.
Many of the S2 7.9's are sailed exclusively as day racers, and their owners have removed these lights and the wiring to reduce weight aloft. since the mast top anchoring light is only used when anchoring in an open area, I've disconnected mine, and used the wiring to light the windex which I've mounted at the far aft end of the mast crane, just above the backstay pin. These lights are all wired to the switch panel. On my mast, a simple two conductor wire comes down from each light, and exits the mast just above the base plug.
BarryE
#11 Aeolus
To answer your questions:
yes, you can fill the hole, and re-drill using marine tex, or any other good epoxy filler. Drill the hole to fit a bic stick ballpint pen. Use the pen as your hold down pin, it will break if you run aground, and protect your rudder from damage. Many of us have learned this trick the hard way.
The S2 mast was originally wired with a simple mast top anchoring light, and a steaming light on the front of the mast just above the spreaders.
The Sea Dog model 40 works well up top, and I've got a perko masthead on the front of my mast replacing the original unit that was missing when I got my boat.
Many of the S2 7.9's are sailed exclusively as day racers, and their owners have removed these lights and the wiring to reduce weight aloft. since the mast top anchoring light is only used when anchoring in an open area, I've disconnected mine, and used the wiring to light the windex which I've mounted at the far aft end of the mast crane, just above the backstay pin. These lights are all wired to the switch panel. On my mast, a simple two conductor wire comes down from each light, and exits the mast just above the base plug.
BarryE
#11 Aeolus
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- Site Admin
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Hi Toby
I wouldn't worry about any lights in the mast unless you're going to be cruising the boat in the dark and / or anchoring overnight. Then just go with the masthead light. Anchor lights eat foresails.
If you sail / plan to sail near shallow water I'd follow Barry's plan. Maybe use a waterproof dowel instead of a pen body. Otherwise don't worry about it too much -- just fill in the hole and remember to tighten down the pivot bolt on the rudder (if you don't use a pin).
Welcome to the club.
I wouldn't worry about any lights in the mast unless you're going to be cruising the boat in the dark and / or anchoring overnight. Then just go with the masthead light. Anchor lights eat foresails.
If you sail / plan to sail near shallow water I'd follow Barry's plan. Maybe use a waterproof dowel instead of a pen body. Otherwise don't worry about it too much -- just fill in the hole and remember to tighten down the pivot bolt on the rudder (if you don't use a pin).
Welcome to the club.
Best wishes,
Tom
Tom
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:35 pm
- Location: Chicago, IL
Stove info / sale / photo
Does anyone have a stove for sale? We have the mounting brackets. Or does anyone have a picture?
Thank you in advance.
C.
Thank you in advance.
C.
C. Carlton
Chicago, IL
Yellow Jacket #238
Chicago, IL
Yellow Jacket #238
Anchor light on masthead top
Tom, this question is for you.
I am wondering how the anchor light, which is on top of the mast, eats foresails?
I am planning on adding a vhf antenna, ( I take the boat out in the Gulf of Mexico,) windex, (the boat currently does not have one,) and anchor light, (I will be anchoring overnite.)
I would like to avoid the possibility of the anchor light eating my foresail, I just don't understand how the foresail gets on top of the mast??!!
Thanks in advance.
I am wondering how the anchor light, which is on top of the mast, eats foresails?
I am planning on adding a vhf antenna, ( I take the boat out in the Gulf of Mexico,) windex, (the boat currently does not have one,) and anchor light, (I will be anchoring overnite.)
I would like to avoid the possibility of the anchor light eating my foresail, I just don't understand how the foresail gets on top of the mast??!!
Thanks in advance.
Sara T. Allen - "Front Runner"
S2 7.9m Grand Slam Hull #50
Sarasota Sailing Squadron
Ken Thompson Park
City Island, Sarasota, Florida
S2 7.9m Grand Slam Hull #50
Sarasota Sailing Squadron
Ken Thompson Park
City Island, Sarasota, Florida
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- Posts: 233
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2003 12:06 pm
Light
I have a light, that is made by Quest, that I hang from the boom, at anchor.
I have cruised, all down in the Keys, with never an issue.
No light on the mast.
I have cruised, all down in the Keys, with never an issue.
No light on the mast.
Purr-Fect
262
262
Masthead/anchor light
Our worthy class president had a slip of the keyboard and confused the steaming light -- also labled as a "masthead light (because it shines forward?) , which is on the front of the mast, just above the hounds, and the anchor light, which is atop the mast. The steaming light can foul sails and halyards and is seldom used by anybody, and is often removed. (I think they even came mislabled on the switch panel from the factory).
Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8
Thanks for the clarification / correction, Jim. Indeed there's no problem with the masthead light, also used to indicate boats 'at anchor'. The steaming light (or foredeck light) is a problem for sails, IMHO.
Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8
Thanks for the clarification / correction, Jim. Indeed there's no problem with the masthead light, also used to indicate boats 'at anchor'. The steaming light (or foredeck light) is a problem for sails, IMHO.
Masthead vs Anchor Light
Thanks for the clarification. I was really puzzled by the possibility of a foresail covering the top of the mast where the (official) anchor light dwells.
Florasena still has a masthead light and since I do cruise at night under power, I will be leaving it as is. The switch has been corrected to properly light the masthead light when selected. Currently there is no anchor light and the wiring to the anchor light switch has been removed.
Florasena still has a masthead light and since I do cruise at night under power, I will be leaving it as is. The switch has been corrected to properly light the masthead light when selected. Currently there is no anchor light and the wiring to the anchor light switch has been removed.
Sara T. Allen - "Front Runner"
S2 7.9m Grand Slam Hull #50
Sarasota Sailing Squadron
Ken Thompson Park
City Island, Sarasota, Florida
S2 7.9m Grand Slam Hull #50
Sarasota Sailing Squadron
Ken Thompson Park
City Island, Sarasota, Florida