Rudder- Has anyone tried Teflon tape on rudder/cheek plates?

[Dale Eager]

I noticed Teflon tape in the Layline catalog and am thinking of using strips of the 4" wide to line the rudder head and cheekplates where they come together at the pivot point. With Teflon on Teflon, I hope to be able to keep the rudder tight (less slop) without losing the kick-up ability. Has anyone tried this or have any comments/suggestions?

[Mark Enns]

This looks like a very good idea. The only problem I could see is that two thicknesses of tape you are using will probably be quite a bit thinner than the original nylon washers (I think each of them are .032" or 1/32" thick). With the original rudder heads with the teak blocks I'm sure you'll still be able to get enough squeeze to tighten the rudder sufficiently to get rid of the slop.
My rudder head has the teak blocks removed and an aluminium plate welded in their place so the thickness of the rudder head and washers is very critical.
One of the most frustrating things is trying to assemble the rudder into the rudder head and trying to get both of the nylon washer holes to line up at the same time so you can insert the bolt. What I've done now is use some thin double sided carpet tape on my existing nylon washer and it works great since it holds it in place during assembly.
The tape sounds like a good idea, though expensive at 30 cents/inch,at least you shouldn't need to much.

[Scott Ross]

I've had luck using Delrin washers. Delrin is an oily plastic which is somewhat self-lubricating and works great in this application. I pick up an inexpensive Delrin plastic cover used for school reports at the drug store and cut the washers after using a compass to create the template. They cost a buck and I replace them each season.

Scott Ross
Peregrine #395

[vandersr]

I started using blank CD's as I never had the original washers, but determined that some spacer was necessary. They are on their 3rd season now.

[Paul Latour]

Used thick mylar tape from Layline; sticky side fixed to rudder solves installation problems. (Damn the original circular spacers!) Mylar not inexpensive but cost per sail ride is nil. Also recently used very cheap thin mylar tape from hardware store used to seal "things", 2 inches wide. Sticky side on rudder. No problem with fit and squeeze. Recommend against aluminum spacers on rudder box unless short; both times my rudder damaged by faulty launch technique, the rear-most wood spacer crushed by rudder, rather than crushing rudder itself. The SS thru bolts (4") also bent each time. Am using pressure treated pine now and brass bolts: perfect.
Paul Latour
Nashville

[Greg Fiegelist]

Thanks for the great tip, Steve Vanderlaan. Going on our 4th year with our 7.9, I decided to take time to see why the tiller seemed to have a small anoying play to it. In taking the rudder apart we found no washers at all between cheek-plates and the rudder. The cd seemed like a great idea for a shim-washer set up. The one side I could line up with the bolt and insert rudder. The other side I had to slide in, I could only get in in 3/4 of the way, so I drilled a hole so the bolt could be inserted all the way.
The rudder is tight and will still have lateral pivit.
Thanks for the tip, Greg Fiegelist