dager board repairs

Gerry Connolly · Post by **Gerry Connolly** » Sat May 19, 2007 7:30 am

I've got the board out of the boat and I'm attempting a repair to the bottom forward edge, and the shark bite that resulted in the upper rear corner, where it enters the trunk. Any suggestions before I get to far?
I plan to use epoxy instead of vinyl ester resin. I'm planing on using 10 oz. cloth and a combination of filler to try and get it fair.
I'm sure this has been done before, so if you guys could share the experience as to what works and what doesn't, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.

orion27 · Post by **orion27** » Sun May 20, 2007 12:33 pm

Try to describe the repair you are trying to do in more detail. I probably would not use any fiberglass cloth because it would be difficult if not impossible to fair. I would use fairing microballoons ( west system ).
You can add some colloidal silca just enough to prevent the mixture from sagging. Keep in mind colloidal silca is difficult to fair because it is usually harder than the surrounding surface so use it sparingly. I usually just use the fairing microballoons and tape plastic wrap around the work to support it while it's curing. You can use a coarse wood file to knock down some of proud areas while repair is partly cured.

orion27 · Post by **orion27** » Sun May 20, 2007 12:37 pm

orion27 wrote:Try to describe the repair you are trying to do in more detail. I probably would not use any fiberglass cloth because it would be difficult if not impossible to fair. I would use fairing microballoons ( west system ).
You can add some colloidal silca just enough to prevent the mixture from sagging. Keep in mind colloidal silca is difficult to fair because it is usually harder than the surrounding surface so use it sparingly. I usually just use the fairing microballoons and tape plastic wrap around the work to support it while it's curing. You can use a coarse wood file to knock down some of proud areas while repair is partly cured.

I'll add that mictroballons are very easy to fair. Start coarse and finally wet sand with 600 grit for very smooth finish.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Sun May 20, 2007 8:33 pm

I just did this. I used regular west system epoxy and mixed in microfibers, just enough to prevent it from sagging. Don't try to do it all at once, took me about 3 times. Roughed it up in between with a wire wheel and 36 grit. I found that the 36 grit took it down pretty good.
Take the time now to check the bottom of the keel, there's an issue with it splitting. I roughed mine up at the same time and put a couple of layers of glass over it.
Good luck!

dave · Post by **dave** » Mon May 21, 2007 12:39 am

Gerry, Orion 27 is kinda right about glass or microballoons but not completely. Glass is harder to work with but is easily faired with a grinder and the right touch. It's also way stronger and much more impact resistant. The micrfibers that Stef discribed are a good compromise.

Dave

Gerry Connolly · Post by **Gerry Connolly** » Mon May 21, 2007 7:32 am

Thanks guys, I'm repairing some fairly big bites here, so I'm using some cloth for strength in a few layups and grinding the high spots down. I'll definitely go to a sandable epoxy mix when I start fairing things, I'm also fixing up a few splits in the forward edge and the bottom.
Is the compukeel template worth getting, ie is it much different than the factory profile?

tpf · Post by **tpf** » Mon May 21, 2007 9:05 am

Bear in mind the strength comes from the glass and fibers, hardened epoxy can be pretty brittle. Make sure to feather the area out pretty far and then build it up in layers trying to make the fberglass as dense as possible so the load transfers from fiber to fiber. When you feather it out, build the layers up with successively larger pieces of glass.

Also make sure your surface is rough, the adhesion to the old work is key. I have not tried a wire wheel but it would probably do I nice job. I have found a circular sander does a better job than the orbital type.

I also found it works pretty well to lay cellophane over the repair and roll out the excess epoxy. The celophane pulls off pretty easy after the epoxy dries and prevents the formation of rouge on the surface.

The West Epoxy site has pretty good guidance on the prepping and repairing of structural defects.

orion27 · Post by **orion27** » Mon May 21, 2007 9:28 am

Structural defects being the key. It appears we are only talking about minor fill and fair

tpf · Post by **tpf** » Mon May 21, 2007 9:35 am

I consider this structural from the standpoint that I want it to hold up. It is definitely not something you want to be fixing every time you run aground.

I sail in pretty deep water but when the current is ripping you need to go to the shoals to get out of the tide and in five years with a few light to moderate groundings the repairs are still intact.

grandillusion · Post by **grandillusion** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:06 pm

a special thanks to the dredging crew at the Petoskey municipal marina for leaving random rocks in the actual marina basin, I guess the Catalina 385 in the well past my destionation knows where it is or has a draft less than our 5' long story short, the board is comming out this weekend, and must be in by the next!

S2 7.9 Meter Class Association

dager board repairs

dager board repairs

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