Interior Carpet
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Interior Carpet
We picked up our "new to us" 7.9 this week. The interior carpet they used to line the interior cabin sides and hull is mold infested and in really bad shape. Any suggestion on replacement or alternatives to using carpet? Was also thinking about adding backrests with storage shelves.
Thanks!
Thanks!
headliner etc
We replaced the headliner in our Elite 37 a few years ago and got a great price and installation from a local automobile shop that does interiors of cars. They used a spray automotive glue (green in color) attached a 1/4 inch foam padding (this hides alot of glasswork imperfections) and then cut and placed each panel individually. The job came out great, and the guys came right to the dock with a small box truck, sewing machine etc. It took them two days.
To get an idea for material, check the auto interior shops first to get an idea of what to use and the weight of the fabric. After that you can check out various fabric suppliers if you can't find what you want from the auto shop. We actually bought our fabric from a local furniture upholstery shop we already do business with. If you want to do it yourself, ask your local upholstery shop who their supplier is in order to purchase industrial strength glue. 3M's product was not strong enough to hold up to the temperature changes inside the cabin and your panels could fall out after 1 season.
I would stay away from carpet since it weighs too much and is too cumbersome to work with. The foam and fabric method works just fine!
Good Luck!
To get an idea for material, check the auto interior shops first to get an idea of what to use and the weight of the fabric. After that you can check out various fabric suppliers if you can't find what you want from the auto shop. We actually bought our fabric from a local furniture upholstery shop we already do business with. If you want to do it yourself, ask your local upholstery shop who their supplier is in order to purchase industrial strength glue. 3M's product was not strong enough to hold up to the temperature changes inside the cabin and your panels could fall out after 1 season.
I would stay away from carpet since it weighs too much and is too cumbersome to work with. The foam and fabric method works just fine!
Good Luck!
Now that I have all the carpet out I'm thinking about just repaint the cabin inner part and re-carpet the hull sections only since they are flat. The cabin sides are fairly smooth and should paint okay.
http://www.fabricsandvinyls.com/product ... _liner.htm
http://www.fabricsandvinyls.com/product ... _liner.htm
My S2 had the carpet removed and the surface painted with a blue and white "slurry", when I bought it. Some of the seams at the cabin top/bulkhead juncture and other places have blue 3/8ths (guessing) line used as an ornamental "caulking" held in place with stainless screws and finish washers. Not sure how the painting was done but it looks good and suits me fine. I like not having the fabric.
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Spike, unfortunately, solvents [MEK, etc] are the only thing that I know of that will do a good job at removing the old contact cement. Beware of the "non-flammable" adhesive removers, they contain methylene chloride and the stuff is a known heavy duty carcinogen. There ain't no free lunch. I'm going to be doing this same thing soon and to me it bolis down to good air flow and a good resperator. Check out this webpage
http://www.acrytech.com
They make numerous tougher than nails coatings, even one for ANTISKID, that are all water based. They might also be able to tell you more about surface prep.
Dave
http://www.acrytech.com
They make numerous tougher than nails coatings, even one for ANTISKID, that are all water based. They might also be able to tell you more about surface prep.
Dave
Will do.Spike Boston wrote:We would like to get some information about the removal of the interior carpet and repainting the interior.
What paint and preparation suggestions would you have.
HUNTING PARTY 448.
I have removed all the carpet and starboard bulkheads. The entire bottom half of the old bulkhead was rotted and you could see where water got into the poorly sealed chainplate, bulkhead top, and deck core. New bulkheads are being made from Maranti 9-ply 1/2" marine plywood and the deck core in that area is being replaced and sealed off.
Not to slam S2 and at the risk of being flamed on this d-group board I will say I was quite shocked how poorly a job S2 did in regards to bulkheads, chainplates, and not sealing off the balsa core. 15 minutes of extra work and some resin from S2 would have saved a lot of major problems later. Anyway, the new bulkheads will be installed correctly and should never see these issues again. I will post what and how I did them.
You are correct but unfortunately, no boat builder that I have had experience with takes the little extra time to do the exact things that you specify, not just S2. The industry standard is "get it out the front door". That's why I over drill and fill everything, I NEVER want to have to do it again!
Dave
Dave
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- Location: Rochester, NY
If it has mildew stains in it [leading from any of the fasteners, etc] the only thing that takes them out is sodium hypochlorite [bleach, tilex]. The application really sucks in an inclosed environment. I'm talking a respirator, gloves, goggles, the whole works. You also better be ready with a hose if things start to get out of hand!
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- Location: Farmington Hills, MI
carpet and the glue
Gang, I got the carpet out, and alternately scrubbed with all manner of cleaners (Fantastic, cleanser, softscrub, etc), and Goo-Gone which finally did a good job. I would have to bet, though, that I went over it a dozen times.
Bob Kirsten
DD Mau
North Star Sail Club
Bob Kirsten
DD Mau
North Star Sail Club