Daggerboard - what's the blue stuff

Gregg · Post by **Gregg** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:14 pm

Howdy, new to the list and my S2.

Had a bad experience with a ledge the other week. In the process of repairing the daggerboard.

What is the layer of "blue stuff" in between the glass and the lead? The fiberglass guy I am working with is concerned about the glass bonding with it.

While I am asking - any thoughts on removing the daggerboard completely while in the water? I have now done it twice on land - but the folks about suggest that the boat would capsize if it was done on the water.

I don't have any reason to pull it on the water - but we thought about it for this repair job.

Thank you,

Gregg
t'kela - #390
Portland, Maine

dave · Post by **dave** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:47 pm

Although I wouldn't SAIL without the board in [even if I could] the boat is internally ballasted so that it's self righting even with the board in the raised position. The board is only 600+ lbs. The boat won't capsize at the dock without the board in it.

grandillusion · Post by **grandillusion** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:27 pm

mine was yellowish a different activator would make it blue, it's high density poly foam (coreing) if your glass guy is concerned about that you might shop around for another one, someone who might be great with speed boats and jet skis could not have a clue about a performance sailboat, ie S2 7.9 or gasp a newer carbon fibre and foam boat

Gregg · Post by **Gregg** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 4:45 pm

Thanks for the info. All went well with the repair.

The guy I used isn't a high performance boat tech - but a guy I trust. And he did a good job with the repair - the board looks fabulous.

The first race back we walked away from a Sabre 38 & a J29. Go figure - nothing like a clean bottom and board.

-Gregg

dave · Post by **dave** » Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:37 pm

When I give clinics I always begin by telling folks that NOTHING I am going to teach them [or at least try to] will do them any good unless the bottom of the boat, and ESPECIALLY the blades are clean, at least 400# smooth and hyrdophylic.