Converting inboard to outboard.
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Converting inboard to outboard.
Has anyone gone through the process on converting an inboard to an outboard? If so, what are the issues, concerns, costs? Thanks
Re: Converting inboard to outboard.
Anchorage,
I converted about 2 seasons ago.
I had the BMW D7 inboard. I liked having an inboard engine but ended up deciding to switch due to problems associated with my slip location (shallow water with weeds and mud that fouled the prop and blocked the raw water intake) and usage pattern (short distances).
I fabricated wood / fiberglass plugs for the log shaft (rod with flange bolted from the inside pulling the flange up against the hull, bedded with silicone caulk) and skeg mount recess (bolted in, again silicone caulk). Others have glassed over the holes. I opted for plugs that can be removed in case I want to go back to inboard. Misc. holes to attend to if you take out controls, etc.
I the engine out of the engine compartment and winched it up out of the cabin into the cockpit on my own but hired the crane in the boat yard to pull the engine off the boat.
Overall my 6HP four cycle outboard (Tohatsu) is working fine in my flat water sailing area - it provides adequate power and it is much lighter than units with more power (e.g. 9's). I am still using the prop that came on the motor but plan to change to one more appropriate to the weight of the boat. The outboard is a bit of a pain though - raising, lowering, gas tank in the back of the cockpit, chewing up the rudder when the rudder is kicked up, prop coming out of the water in a chop; but on balance its worked well and I am not in the market to repower with an inboard.
I race PRHF, so I had a rating change. If you race class you need to be sure the the boats weight and weight distribution meets class rules.
The engine compartment is new found storage for cruising.
The costs were for a new out-board engine (~$1500), the outboard motor bracket, and nominal costs assocated with the plugs fabricated from wood and West System I had on hand. I bought a 1.5 gallon tank marketed for dinghys and hung it on the inside of the transom.
(I still have my D7 in my garage - I think it was in great shape - If you are interested in it let me know.
I converted about 2 seasons ago.
I had the BMW D7 inboard. I liked having an inboard engine but ended up deciding to switch due to problems associated with my slip location (shallow water with weeds and mud that fouled the prop and blocked the raw water intake) and usage pattern (short distances).
I fabricated wood / fiberglass plugs for the log shaft (rod with flange bolted from the inside pulling the flange up against the hull, bedded with silicone caulk) and skeg mount recess (bolted in, again silicone caulk). Others have glassed over the holes. I opted for plugs that can be removed in case I want to go back to inboard. Misc. holes to attend to if you take out controls, etc.
I the engine out of the engine compartment and winched it up out of the cabin into the cockpit on my own but hired the crane in the boat yard to pull the engine off the boat.
Overall my 6HP four cycle outboard (Tohatsu) is working fine in my flat water sailing area - it provides adequate power and it is much lighter than units with more power (e.g. 9's). I am still using the prop that came on the motor but plan to change to one more appropriate to the weight of the boat. The outboard is a bit of a pain though - raising, lowering, gas tank in the back of the cockpit, chewing up the rudder when the rudder is kicked up, prop coming out of the water in a chop; but on balance its worked well and I am not in the market to repower with an inboard.
I race PRHF, so I had a rating change. If you race class you need to be sure the the boats weight and weight distribution meets class rules.
The engine compartment is new found storage for cruising.
The costs were for a new out-board engine (~$1500), the outboard motor bracket, and nominal costs assocated with the plugs fabricated from wood and West System I had on hand. I bought a 1.5 gallon tank marketed for dinghys and hung it on the inside of the transom.
(I still have my D7 in my garage - I think it was in great shape - If you are interested in it let me know.
Re: Converting inboard to outboard.
Greg: Thanks a lot for the information on converting. Would you have converted if it had not been for your water level/slip location?
Re: Converting inboard to outboard.
Achorage,
Its a question of trade-offs.
I preferred the inboard in general for ease of use and motoring; ie no leaning over the back of the boat to raise and lower the engine, steer it, adjust throttle, shift, having to take extra care not to chew up the rudder when it is kicked up.
The inboard prop stays in the water in waves / chop / wakes and when working on the foredeck. The outboard is definitely annoying in waves and when I go forward (esp when single handing).
If I was in deep water, motored more, and sailed in a larger body of water with more waves I would probably have stuck with the inboard and may have repowered with a Yanmar GM10 (before that would have tried decarbonizing the D7 - I think just a bit underpowered for the boat) - trade off here is cost of repowering with the inboard - I just couldn't justify the cost and effort for how I currently use the boat.
If class racing is a priority, then the outboard appears to be the preferred set up.
It is quieter inside the cabin when motoring with the outboard, no diesel odor, and more storage space.
When in tight spots, the outboard is handy for swifter turns when steerage is otherwise impaired by a raised keel and kicked up rudder in shallows. Its easy to take the outboard to the shop for service.
Its a question of trade-offs.
I preferred the inboard in general for ease of use and motoring; ie no leaning over the back of the boat to raise and lower the engine, steer it, adjust throttle, shift, having to take extra care not to chew up the rudder when it is kicked up.
The inboard prop stays in the water in waves / chop / wakes and when working on the foredeck. The outboard is definitely annoying in waves and when I go forward (esp when single handing).
If I was in deep water, motored more, and sailed in a larger body of water with more waves I would probably have stuck with the inboard and may have repowered with a Yanmar GM10 (before that would have tried decarbonizing the D7 - I think just a bit underpowered for the boat) - trade off here is cost of repowering with the inboard - I just couldn't justify the cost and effort for how I currently use the boat.
If class racing is a priority, then the outboard appears to be the preferred set up.
It is quieter inside the cabin when motoring with the outboard, no diesel odor, and more storage space.
When in tight spots, the outboard is handy for swifter turns when steerage is otherwise impaired by a raised keel and kicked up rudder in shallows. Its easy to take the outboard to the shop for service.
Re: Converting inboard to outboard.
I purchased a brand new Tohatsu 6hp this past season on line. For under $100 more than the standard 20" long shaft I got the 25" extra long shaft with high thrust prop. It also has a charging system for the battery.
I believeTohatsu calls it the sail master.
Paid under $1500, free UPS delivery.
I believeTohatsu calls it the sail master.
Paid under $1500, free UPS delivery.
Stef
Odyssey #146
Odyssey #146