daggerboard damage

[northerner]

When we launched our boat for the first time earlier this summer, we failed to properly cleat the dagger board line and it came loose, with the board crashing down and bumping the bottom

We we took it out recently we could see that there is a bash in the corner of the dagger board and a crack that goes up about 5 inches. I can't see further up than that. I'm not sure how we can assess the damage, because I don't know if there is a lift facility here. Can cracks be repaired with epoxy, or are we maybe looking at replacing the whole board?

[northerner]

I posted this in the wrong place

[northerner]

This is a crack I noticed ahead of the board

[Mark Gutteridge]

Hello;
You will need a fork lift or other pice of equipment to pull the board. I have done it twice on Hunting party . The latest being this spring.There are fiberglass guides at the top of the board. YDepending on how tight the tolerences are you may need some paint scrappers to help guide out the top of the board. Then you can properly asses the damage to the board and the trunk.
I also used my grinder and dremmel with a cutting tool to cut back and Bevel the fiberglass guides at the top of the board before reinstalling it. The stuff has no real structural benefit. I just think it depened on the mold whether you had a close fit to get the board in and out.
Chimo;
Guts # 448

[northerner]

Hi Mark, thank you

I think we have one organized to lift it out. Crossing my fingers that there isn't too much damage. We emptied a gallon of water out of the forward hatches this weekend, so hopefully it isn't leaking somewhere

We will make sure to have a grinder on hand

[Tim Bosma]

We lifted out Balckbeard's board with a 'cherry-picker' manlift. Had a guy on deck to help it out of the trunk, then sent it off to a fiberglass shop for fairing and sealing. We lightly sanded the 'orangepeel' when we got it back and then added bottom paint.

Earlier on Hot Tamale we had a nasty grounding the resulted in a hull crack like yours. We had a shop do the hull repairs. Dave (from Bullit Sails) will have a lot of advice on the hull repair.

[northerner]

Hi Tim, thanks

I started an insurance claim this morning. Our deductable is $500. I can assume this is going to cost much more than that?

There is a fiberglass shop here that can probably do the work. They do not have a fork lift though. The shop owner is away and the guy I talked to doesn't seem to know how to get the board out

The crack you had on your hull, was it hard to fix? Did you need to get it up on the hoist to do that? There is a hoist on at the marina on the coast, about 2 hours from here

Can you give any advice on how we assess the hull damage, do we sand the fiberglass away? Is the hull balsa cored, or just above the waterline?

Sorry for all of the questions. We are in totally over our head here. We also had water in the bilge, and after cleaning it out, with the boat now on the trailer, it seems to be leaking from somewhere. It almost seems like it's leaking from the daggerboard casing, if that's possible

I'm anxious to get all of this fixed. We had our first frost this morning

[Tim Bosma]

The entire hull is balsa cored as soon as you move a few inches away from the daggerboard trunk. I was not present when the HT Hull crack was repaired, but i expect the shop hoisted the hull up, raised the board out of the way, and then made the repair. I think the Blackbeard board work was about $600.

[J.D. Kloss]

My boat had a similar crack; I repaired it once and then it was redone professionally when I had the board and trunk repaired. (there are pictures somewhere on this board). You do need to lift the board out, but you don't need to hoist the boat. BTW, I'd bet that's NOT where your water is coming from. I assume you've checked the instrument thru-hulls. My boat accumulates water under the quarterberths and in 26 years I still haven't figured out where it comes from.

Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8

[northerner]

Hi Tim and Jim

Thanks for the replies

The insurance adjuster came by to take a look. He believes the crack is actually old, because it looks like it's been painted over. That's good news I hope

Regarding the water. I took out the survey we had done and it talked about a patch on the inside of the daggerboard trunk. I took another look and can see that someone did a sort of messy patch job on the part of the trunk that's accessible from the bilge. We had a lot of rain the last two days and I noticed that there is water inside the bilge again, and also water leaking out of the daggerboard trunk into the dirt. What I'm wondering is if the water is going into the trunk from the holes in the top where the ropes go in

I also noticed water in the locker under the pulpit and can see where the nuts are rusted, water must be coming in there. Do either of you know if there is balsa core there? I hope not. Reviewing the survey I can see that there are areas that we need to look at for dampness, like around the stansions.

We've located a cherry picker and a fiberglass place to do the repair for us. Hopefully it won't be as bad as we thought

[Tim Bosma]

The acrylic plates that cover the to of the trunk are covers only, they are not intended to be sealed. The trunk goes from deck through to hull so any water that gets in should flow out the bottom. There may be something inside the trunk that is diverting the water into the hull, check it carefully after the board is pulled.
The entire hull is cored, including the transom, aft inner cockpit wall, etc. We had water standing in the lazarette after a rain due to 2 thins. The lift-up seats not setting down snugly, letting rain splash in, and the cockpit scupper hoses were brittle and cracked so they dripped into the lazarette. We did both repairs ourselves over the hard-water season.

[northerner]

Hi Tim, thanks

We tracked the source of the water to the port and starboard chainplates. When we removed them we found rotten core. On the starboard side it is rotten right into the bulkhead, so I'm sure glad we found it

It still might be leaking from the daggerboard trunk and when we get it pulled out this week we'll check that out. I notice there is an old patch in there so that's the most obvious place to look at

Now we have a fix job to remove the rotten balsa and replace the bulkhead, as well as the daggerboard fix Looks like we won't be putting her back in the water this season. The ice will be here soon

[Gregg]

A couple of thoughts:

When I grounded and had my board fixed it was close to $2500 - part of that was hauling the boat - the yard wouldn't take it on the trailer. Insurance did cover this - however when the adjuster tells you the crack was already there - that means it is not part of the claim (I would expect)

As for the rest - while you are dealing with the chain plates you may want to tap test or get a moisture meter and check around other thru deck fittings. I did a rebed job which had a few places where things were wet. I used the bent nail trick and got out the rot and then did a solid fill with epoxy and a redrill. Seemed to work okay.

You can also get at the deck from underneath in some areas. This allows for a more cosmetically pleasing repair to remove rotted decking from below. A little trickier on the repair but do-able.

Frost already - you are north!

good luck, Gregg

[northerner]

Hi Greg, thanks

We have removed all the hardware and begun the process of fixing everything. Fraser made plywood patches and filled the holes with epoxy for the spots by the pulpit and the swim ladder. We are thinking of having the guys at the fiberglass place fix the ones that are larger around the chain plates.

We're getting the run around from Hub Insurance on the daggerboard issue. There were recommendations made in the boat survey that are completely unrelated to this issue and they are using that as reason to say we voided our insurance because we didn't comply. Interestingly, we had until October of last year to do the recommendations, and when we brought the boat up here to the Yukon this summer, our policy was changed to a different underwriter, and this did not come up. They didn't ask us if we complied. We never did read the fine print about the recommendations so we weren't aware of them. It seems silly that they all have to do with issues such as a propane locker for the Force 10 fireplace gas container, fuel tank storage, etc

[Runaway]

While prepping the hull for new bottom paint, I discovered a separation in the gel coat and fiberglass just forward of the dagger board. The only way to fix this is to grind out the bad glass and rebuild.

Here's a photo of the hull with most of the damage cut out. I intend to laminate 1708 until the void is back in line with the hull coutour, and then apply some carbon fiber over the whole thing. The problem is those two brown spots - which are part of the exposed wood core. One side is drying out nicely and the other is weepy and has a nice acid smell.

Does anyone know how far back the wood core goes? What is visible does not seem to connect to other wood core, and appears to be some kind of stringer that runs parallel to the dagger board.

Any comments or assistance would be appreciated!

Runaway
#23