Core repair - upside down

[Runaway#23]

There has been considerable discussion on this board regarding core repairs and fiberglassing from the underside. Many comments about getting resin dripping and falling cloth can be eliminated by using a layer of heavy plastic under the cloth and then a 3-4 inch piece of cushion foam to keep constant pressure on the repair until the resin begins to kick.

Having done this successfully in four sections of #23, I had time to snap a few pics while completing the last one, a section of the bow, below the waterline.

[Runaway#23]

Here's a second photo with the foam and boards removed leaving the plastic film, which was peeled back leaving the new cloth. Squeegee out the air bubbles and excess resin, then sand / grind / fair cloth edges in preparation for the second layer.

Lather, rinse , repeat.

[AllenDurow]

DSC01983.JPG.jpg (251.88 KiB) Viewed 4546 times

Gravity is not just a good idea, it's the law.

[Runaway#23]

Dang!

I just knew there had to be an easier way! Can you draw a picture of the block & tackle you recommend for flipping over a 7.9?

Gravity Rules!

[AllenDurow]

I'll try and snap a few photos of the device later this week when I head up to the boat. It's a simple concept but too difficult to describe.

[dave]

That will work.

If I do anymore of it [which I know that I will ] I'm going to vacuum bag it. It's a little more work and you have to have the vacuum, but it's the only way to truly get the new core/laminate as void free as possible.

[AllenDurow]

Here ya go Dave. "Block and tackle" consisted of a fork lift.

DSC04403.JPG (110.2 KiB) Viewed 4330 times

plywood forms are bolted to the boatisseri (currently shown in upside down position), placed on boat, and strapped down.
stands are attached at each end and boat is lifted with a farm jack at each end, trailer removed, and boat is flipped using one person and a metal bar. Then boat is lowered and stands removed.