The boomkicker has worn out, and I'm thinking of going back to the original toppping lift rather than buying a new one. But I don't remember what the mid-boom fittings looked like. Anybody have a photo or even a diagram?
Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8
topping lift
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Re: topping lift
Just out of curiosity, what wore out exactly and why not just fix/replace that part? Again, just curious................................... topping lifts are a hassle IMHO, but to each their own. 
-
J.D. Kloss
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:05 am
Re: topping lift
Essentially everything but the rods themselves. Both rod ends, mast and boom fittings need to be replaced. It's seasier to flake the main with a topping lift set, otherwise I agree they're a pain. Just thinking about saving the $250.
Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8
Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8
Re: topping lift
Just my opinion here, but I've installed lots of BoomKickers and have yet to have one fail or wear out, BUT.......................................... I always use the lighter weight rods and usually order the next model down from the one recommended by BoomKicker for the boat in question. Think about it: they're selling units and I would speculate that the larger units have higher profit margin.
On boats that I sail and that I rig for clients, all I want the BoomKicker to REALLY do is to provide positive lifting force when the sail if up and flying. That way one can keep the leech working correctly in light air instead of the weight of the boom stalling the whole sail out. This also gives plenty of return force for keeping the boom up when reefing or dropping sail, and usually is plenty to hold up the whole shebang flaked and covered. If not, that's what the main halyard is for when connected at the back of the boom!
Any more return force than this just puts LOADS of pressure on the metal fittings and will wear them out prematurely, plus it adds to the load felt when pulling the vang on, making your crew work harder and loading up cleats more. The second thing that I see LOTS of folks doing (not saying you did or do) is leaving the boat at the dock with the rods bent instead of straight!!!!!
This keeps the whole system loaded so that every motion of the boat from waves and wind is putting lots of wear and tear on the fittings! The main halyard should be used to raise the aft part of the boom until the rods go just slack.
When I install a BoomKicker my goal is to only have enough force and adjustment to take the boom just a tad higher than it would be when the leech is slightly twisted while sailing upwind. Again, anything more than that is only loading up the system and wearing out the parts prematurely.
This rigging also keeps the whole sail from being totally twisted off and useless when your erstwhile crew leaves the freaking vang uncleated while reaching or running........................................ something that I see on MOST boats with any type of rod vang or positive boom lift device, either occasionally or chronically!!!! 
On boats that I sail and that I rig for clients, all I want the BoomKicker to REALLY do is to provide positive lifting force when the sail if up and flying. That way one can keep the leech working correctly in light air instead of the weight of the boom stalling the whole sail out. This also gives plenty of return force for keeping the boom up when reefing or dropping sail, and usually is plenty to hold up the whole shebang flaked and covered. If not, that's what the main halyard is for when connected at the back of the boom!
Any more return force than this just puts LOADS of pressure on the metal fittings and will wear them out prematurely, plus it adds to the load felt when pulling the vang on, making your crew work harder and loading up cleats more. The second thing that I see LOTS of folks doing (not saying you did or do) is leaving the boat at the dock with the rods bent instead of straight!!!!!
This keeps the whole system loaded so that every motion of the boat from waves and wind is putting lots of wear and tear on the fittings! The main halyard should be used to raise the aft part of the boom until the rods go just slack.
When I install a BoomKicker my goal is to only have enough force and adjustment to take the boom just a tad higher than it would be when the leech is slightly twisted while sailing upwind. Again, anything more than that is only loading up the system and wearing out the parts prematurely.
This rigging also keeps the whole sail from being totally twisted off and useless when your erstwhile crew leaves the freaking vang uncleated while reaching or running........................................ something that I see on MOST boats with any type of rod vang or positive boom lift device, either occasionally or chronically!!!! Re: topping lift
I am revisiting and possibly replacing my topping lift and I have never used the boom kicker but have had it on the wish list for years.
Question to Dave on this topic.... If I follow you correctly, you seem to recommend using the next smallest boom kicker and using the main halyard as the topping lift (while flacking for instance),.... but do you recommend then not having a topping lift?
I like your other suggestions for using and storing the boom kicker.
If you are taking you boom and mast off between boat uses, is the boom kicker easy to take off and put on?
Kevin in Tucson
#29
Question to Dave on this topic.... If I follow you correctly, you seem to recommend using the next smallest boom kicker and using the main halyard as the topping lift (while flacking for instance),.... but do you recommend then not having a topping lift?
I like your other suggestions for using and storing the boom kicker.
If you are taking you boom and mast off between boat uses, is the boom kicker easy to take off and put on?
Kevin in Tucson
#29