any ideas on how to repair my rudder? One side of cheek plate is elongated, as with the rudder. The thing slops around underway.
Thanks, Greg
rudder slop
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
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LarryE-old
- Posts: 233
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2003 12:06 pm
Re: rudder slop
When I purchased Purrfect in 97 I had the same issues.
I purchased new cheekplates from someone on this board, I believe Stef. For my friend's 7.9 I just welded up the hole and redrilled it.
My rudder hole was out of round by 1/8 inch. I clamped the rudder to a Bridgeport milling machine and indicated the hole. I bored it to 1''. I turned a bronze bushing up 1'' OD after boring the hole,in the bushing, for the pin. pressed it in. 15 years later, like new.
I purchased new cheekplates from someone on this board, I believe Stef. For my friend's 7.9 I just welded up the hole and redrilled it.
My rudder hole was out of round by 1/8 inch. I clamped the rudder to a Bridgeport milling machine and indicated the hole. I bored it to 1''. I turned a bronze bushing up 1'' OD after boring the hole,in the bushing, for the pin. pressed it in. 15 years later, like new.
Purr-Fect
262
262
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Tom Elsen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 419
- Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 5:42 pm
- Location: Minneapolis, MN & Chicago, IL
Re: rudder slop
The cheek plates are a weld/redrill or a 'buy new ones' fix.
If you also have an elongated or warped axle tunnel in the top of your rudder blade:
Get a brass pipe nipple at Home Depot, where the ID of the pipe matches almost exactly the OD of the lag bolt which serves as the axle for the rudder blade. The ID fitting may require a tiny amount of work with a rat file, but very little.
The length of the brass piece is bit longer then the width of the blade head.
Drill out the existing hole in your blade. Seal both ends of the fitting with tape. Fit the brass piece in place with some VC Underwater epoxy. Take special care to make certain the new tunnel in the blade is well and completely filled with the epoxy. Then make CERTAIN....absolutely certain....that the axis of the tube is EXACTLTY perpendicular to the face of the blade. Not a bad idea to use a wooden dowel for this. Measure it on both sides of the rudder head. Measure several time until you're certain the VC has kicked.
Brass is really soft. I used a belt sander get the piece down flush with the face of the blade head.
Simple really.
If you also have an elongated or warped axle tunnel in the top of your rudder blade:
Get a brass pipe nipple at Home Depot, where the ID of the pipe matches almost exactly the OD of the lag bolt which serves as the axle for the rudder blade. The ID fitting may require a tiny amount of work with a rat file, but very little.
The length of the brass piece is bit longer then the width of the blade head.
Drill out the existing hole in your blade. Seal both ends of the fitting with tape. Fit the brass piece in place with some VC Underwater epoxy. Take special care to make certain the new tunnel in the blade is well and completely filled with the epoxy. Then make CERTAIN....absolutely certain....that the axis of the tube is EXACTLTY perpendicular to the face of the blade. Not a bad idea to use a wooden dowel for this. Measure it on both sides of the rudder head. Measure several time until you're certain the VC has kicked.
Brass is really soft. I used a belt sander get the piece down flush with the face of the blade head.
Simple really.
Best wishes,
Tom
Tom