Spreader and Shroud Question

[Martin]

I have a question I hope someone can answer for me. I'm in the process of painting my mast, boom and spreaders. While prepping the spreaders for paint I attempted to remover the end caps from the spreaders but found the bolts that attach the end caps corroded in place and the bolts are not budging. I tried PB penetrating lubricant to no avail and one of the bolts heads broke off. So I'm afraid that if the end caps have to come of I'll be drilling out the bolts and re-tapping the holes. But before I try taking apart the spreaders I would like to know if the end caps are suppose to clamp the shrouds in place or should the shrouds be able to slide through the hole between the end cap and spreader? Currently the shroud will not slide and I'm afraid that they are corroded in place. If the shrouds are not meant to slide through the spreader then how is the angle of the shroud, relative to the spreader, adjusted? Measured? To avoid having to drill out the bolts I would probably just reinstall as is but my concern is that if the shroud should slide through the spreader there might be hidden corrosion of the shroud at the spreader. Do your shrouds slide or are they clamped? Anyone know of the shrouds failing due to corrosion at the spreader?

And by the way, our yacht club in Eugene, OR is closed and the reservoir where we sail did not fill this year due to an unusually dry spring. So looks like I'll have time to do all the deferred maintenance on my boat. I'm in the process of replacing the Cutless bearing and re-packing the stuffing box. Also discovered that the prop was loose and the shaft was not aligned properly and had to adjust the motor mounts. Which would explain the knocking and excessive vibration. Apparently a previous owner removed the prop and shaft and then a later owner reinstalled the prop and shaft but did not align it right. I'm looking forward to seeing and feeling the difference.

Also curious if anyone if familiar with my boat. The boat name is "Iskra", hull number 381 and I think it was originally from Chicago.

Thanks.

Martin

[Jameso]

The shrouds are meant to slid between the spreaders and end caps. Good luck

[Jameso]

The shrouds are meant to slide between the spreaders and end caps. Good luck

[John Spierling]

Try adding penetrating oil in from the open-end (the mast end) of the spreader and keep it vertical for at least a week. Also a little heat (propane torch) can help break the bolts free, but be very careful not to over heat and make sure you drain all of the penetrating oil out of spreader first. I had the same problem, and this is how I got mine to break free. I would definitely fix this issue now, while you have time. The shroud should be able to slide through the cap. Spreaders tips should be angled slightly upward while tuning the rig.

[Martin]

I kinda thought they should slide. Thanks for the reply. I'll give the penetrating oil another try. I'll provide an update to let everyone know the results. Thanks again.

[Pete]

I've heard diesel fuel makes a good penetrant.

[Martin]

I was not able to free the spreader cap bolts. I had to drill out the bolts and retap the holes. Good news is that the shrouds showed no signs of corrosion. The original bolts were 10-32 Allen head bolts. When attempting to remove the bolts the Allen heads sheared off. I ended up drilling and retapping with 1/4" x 20 counter sunk bolts.

Martin

[Dr.M]

When I did mine, it took heat. Propane torch heat, coupled with penetrating fluid. I soaked ‘em for a week in ATF, PB Blaster, you name it. The stainless socket head screws still get corroded in the aluminum.

So, soak the thing for two weeks. It won’t help, much, but it will give you hope... Clamp the spreader in a vice. You’ll be cursing the shroud flopping around and knocking things off your workbench, etc. I rolled them up and taped them as best I could. Now, get a good propane torch so the flame can be adjusted nicely. The object is to heat things, not melt them. Yes, the oil will catch on fire, the paint will be ruined, but that’s the way it goes. Get the spreader cap and area surrounding just one of the cap screws nice and hot. Smoke should be rolling off it, but don’t melt it. Yes, a shot of whiskey for your nerves is helpful. I cut an Allen key so I could hold it a vice grip (things are kinda toasty, don’t burn yourself). Then, tap the end with a ball peen hammer while you gently work the screw back and forth, just a fraction. The greatest thing holding the screw frozen is the corrosion products that have developed around the socket head of the screw. Spray more penetrating fluid at it, set it on fire a couple more times. And each time try to budge the screw without twisting the head off. Yeah, if you can get 2 out of 4 screws out without twisting the heads off, you’re lucky.

So, I know I twisted at least on head off, but I got my caps off. I was going to redrill them for new holes, but, I decided to try and get that little “stump” out. I soaked it some more, then set it all on fire again with the torch and heated it up. Gripping the screw stump with a vice grip got it out. All of it, including the threads from inside the hole. Crap. But, not to worry. Those original screws only go in about 3/8”. I ran a tap all the way through the spreader end and there’s plenty of metal in there to let you use longer screws.

I wire brushed the snot out of the cap ends and the spreader end. I soaked the parts in pure, fresh water to soften salt deposits, and used dental picks to clean out the socket holes. I even bought a countersink drill set to deepen the holes slightly. Oh yeah, I also stamped the end caps to match the spreader, because these little buggers were handmade and individually match their one and only spreader. Mine couldn’t be swapped, nor could they be turned over, it’s a custom fit.

There you have it. You’ll end up an alcoholic before you are through!

Best of luck!
Steve

[Dr.M]

And you have a diesel boat? Me, too. My hull is #45, and my boat was repowered with a 1GM10 Yanmar. What’s in yours? You on Fern Ridge? When I was racing Hobie 18s back in the mid ‘80s, I always missed the race on that reservoir, but I won 18As two years in a row on Dorena Lake.
Best-
Steve

[Martin]

Steve, Thanks for the advice!

I own hull# 381. It still has the original BMW D7 and still running strong. If I do ever re-power I think I'll put an electric motor in the D7's place. For my purposes an electric motor would work for me. I probably used less than 2 gallons of diesel over the last two sailing seasons. I only use the motor to get in and out of the marina and when the wind dies. I'm thinking a 5hp 48vdc motor would be more than enough to move my boat at hull speed. I would be curious if anyone else has re-powered a 7.9 with an electric motor.
You should definitely try to make it to Fern Ridge sometime. Perhaps during one of the Eugene Yacht Club regattas.