Before leaving for launch, starboard side.
Wet sand (1200 grit), and wax
hull waxed
Mast head fly applied (this is critical how many of us put mast up and forgot, and had to drop JUST for that?) Motor on too.
By the way, my mast support is dumb, I realized my mistake as I was using it. It should be supported on each side, I did that on my last one, no worries it worked fine, but obviously the strength of the 2x4 is on its edge (rookie mistake).
A full setup picture. A-frame setup was also too tall, and needed to lean more forward, but it worked just the same.
A note about that. I upgraded the line on the vang, which has nice snap-shackles top and bottom, but the 4:1 isn't really quite enough purchase to easily do it 1 handled. I recall now I used 6:1 when I did it on my prior boat. I suppose I could add a shackle and make it 8:1 easily but it'd go up to slow then. I also think I could loop further up the mast and have it go up faster and easier. I'll noodle on that a bit, but this was still a single hand mast raising. I won't lie it is still a bit of a pucker moment when it has cleared the mast holder and is just starting to go up. Keep in mind when the mast is more than halfway up, the lowers steer the mast.
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
Love this picture, total rookie move. Tiller installed, upside down!
Motor running nicely in picture though.
boat in slip
It wasn't until the next day (today) that I got to the boat and got the boom on
I fixed the tiller, tilted the outboard up (in case temps dip below freezing), and setup the backstay adjuster.
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
SailingUphill wrote: ↑Sun Jan 29, 2023 8:32 pm
I also think I could loop further up the mast and have it go up faster and easier.
It's tough to tell from the pic, are you tied off and lifting from the spinnaker ring?
Can you use one of the Jib halyards? My Sj21 is a lot smaller of course, and weighs a lot less, but I'm debating a similar concept to how we raise our masts.
Yes I pulled it up from the spin ring. Never had issues with doing that on 68. 399 seemed to give me grief doing it, but I think I had stuff hung up when I did the initial pull. As you can imagine it actually gets easier to pull up as it goes up.
honestly It'd be better to haul it up from higher up than that (as high up as you can reach), the issue with that is you don't want it to slide down the mast as you are pulling (that'd be no good for your health). Easy way to fix that is to hold a loop in place using a halyard and make sure you have a way to pull the halyard and loop down once its up.
I start these threads to give you what works for me, not necessarily the best way to do things. Also I am including the stuff that I screw up so we can learn from my mistakes too. Example, the tiller being upside down. Also the mast upper while plenty high enough, its only as strong as a 2x4. Some lateral support would make sense. The last time I made one I used (3) 2x4s one paralell to the stern, and 2 perpendicular, to provide strength (2x4 won't bend then). Its dumb, but you put a lot of force on the roller when you roll the mast back on it.
The eye I hook the vang to, also needs to be VERY robust, the downward force on it puts a lot of strain on the eye, a heavy steel eye is warrented, and it needs be secure well with nice shoulder washers both sides. As stated the A-frame could stand to lean a bit forward, to lower the apex a bit and also to better bisect the angle during the initial pull. The lowers really do steer the mast straight once you get about halfway up.
I will note that others suggest the use of a gin pole, which is really not a gin pole, its a vulcrum. It works well and many even say use the spin pole for it. The only issue I have with that is you must crank down on a halyard lets say to pull the mast up, that puts the one cranking directly in line with the mast should something go horribly wrong. My opinion is, if this goes wrong I want it to fall away from me not toward me.
With my last A frame rig, I had it so sound that I was able to stop the lowering/raising process in the middle and verify everything was OK, and then continue on. Enough time to take pictures even.
Another note, make sure ALL YOUR LINES/STAYs are clear when you start your lift. Nobody wants to fight stays during the lifting process (and break something).
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
I use the spin pole (less stuff to haul around when raising or lowering) but pull the mast up with the mainsheet assembly as "block and tackle"connected to the bow stem. So I am sitting near the bow with my feet braced on the bow stem while just pulling on the mainsheet with my hands (no winch involved) to lift the mast. Can cleat the mainsheet in the ms cam cleat if desired while part way up if needed to clear a sidestay or whatever. If the mast were to fall I am completely out of harm's way.
Doug I considered doing exactly that, with a bridle as a gin pole. The part I didn't like was how the mast might flop side to side for the first part of the lift (might not be an issue).
When You do this, do you use spin pole on the spin ring or at the base of the mast?
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
I do it the way I see recommended. The mast is always supported laterally by the jib and spin halyards. These lateral support halyards are connected to a bridle that places the lower connection points in line with the mast butt bolt. The main halyard is used for lifting.
The spin pole is simply connected to a small steel L-bracket that is temporarily connected to the mast butt bolt. No modification of the spin pole is required.
A couple more thoughts. I am able to raise/lower the mast completely by myself. I am an old guy and not particularly strong. An enabler of this is to have a "mast crutch" that positions the mast top at the transom as high as possible because the higher the mast top then the lower the initial force required to lift the mast (due to the better angle). The PO of my boat built a simple "ladder" from 2"x4" pine wood that fits perfectly in the very rear of the cockpit floor. It must be lashed tightly to the rear pulpit so it does not move. You want the top cross-piece (the piece that the mast sets on) as high as possible (much higher than the diagram appears to show it). This height will be limited by your ability to lift the mast up onto the cross piece. The mast is heavy so this is the most physically strenuous part of the process for me. Lifting the top end of the mast up is best done with the butt of the mast placed as far forward on the foredeck as possible (use a seat cushion to protect the deck). This will give you the best angle advantage and lightest lifting task. Carpet the top cross-piece of the 2x4 ladder, so you can slide the mast rearward on it easily and without scuffing the mast paint, to get the mast butt into the tabernacle.
Doug I hear you, as you might see from pictures above, the mast crutch is sitting on the pintails and has the mast up at a significant angle, which facilitated raising the mast with one hand.
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
New synthetic lifelines, and lifeline cushions
The next day I use very light line (cotton line) to create the webbing to catch the headsail. I single hand a lot and it helps to keep the genoa on deck during a douse.
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
Busted up hatch before.
Bowmar 966 hatch installed. Yeah my preference would be for the Lewmar honestly, but this fit so well I got no complaints.
The plastic was still on the glass when I took this picture.
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
Tiller pilot installed today.
Raymarine ST2000+ I put 6 inches of extension on it, seems to be about right.
This is quieter than my Simrad TP22 was, remains to be seen if its better, same or worse. So far I like it though. The TP22 was now priced almost $200 more than the Raymarine ST2000+
Here is a better shot of the Bowmar hatch, 24 hours after its install we had 3 inches of rain, not a drop inside the cabin. Butyl tape generously surrounds it. I am still not sure I like the plastic around that hatch, but it sure seems solid.
You will see I used the line to run the lifelines and catch downed headsails.
From this picture you will also see my amsteel lifelines.
headsail is a 155 North 3DL about 20 years old, the luff on this is starting to separate, so she's not got long.
I did get a decent sail in, even if there was little wind. Temps were 54 degrees. 2/18/2023
Presently hull 399, "Ragtime" Blackwater Yacht Racing, Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Fomerly hull 68,"Rum Line," Paupack Sail Club, Lake Wallenpaupack, PA.
Your boat looks to be very nice and you are improving it (cleaning up the hull, replacing the hatch, etc). Nice work. I envy you for having all hanked on foresails. My boat came with roller furling and the associated plastic piece that encompasses the forestay. All of the 10 or so foresails that came with my boat have no hanks and are instead using the luff tape. Single handing with that is a pain if I want to change sails. I would much prefer the simple hanks.
