Winter Projects ?
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Winter Projects ?
Just curious what winter projects everyone has on their 7.9 "to-do" list ?
Maintenance
Remove and caulk everything on the deck that hasn't had this done in the last 7-10 years. Only use RTV silicone. RTV is a longer rated material but because of flexing, re-caulking is cheap insurance aginst water intrusion. Every year clean turnbuckles with mineral spirits using tooth brush and rinse, removing all dirt and spray with dry lubricant before re-assembly. Every year take all winches apart, clean, grease bearings and lube pawlings. Must take small winche bases off boat to completely clean & lube all parts (a real pain but I only do this every 3 years). Ths is a start but other maintenance depends on condition of your boat. Owned boat 20 years and no failures with this schedule.
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Nice list, Tom.
I'd add the following items for annual care -
Check the mast base plate and re-silicone if necessary. (Water intrusion there is a real pain)
Do the same thing for the stantions.
Replace every o-ring, rin-ding, and /or cotter pin in a critical load-bearing position.
Check your pintles for cracks or signs of failure.
Check the pintle brackets for any sign they need to be re-sealed. I'd use 5200 in this application.
Remove the spreaders and check the spreader bracket for any weld cracks.
Check the gooseneck bracket for any looseness or cracking.
Inspect every wire rigging terminal for any sign of corrosion or cracking.
Resilicone any loose screws in the hatch or companionway board tracks.
Look for any cracks or dings in the board. We try to ID them in the Fall, let them dry out, and fix them in the Spring.
Finally, don't neglect the trailer. Bleed the brake lines. Replace the fluid if you've not done so in the past several years. Regrease the bearings. (We do this every time we use the trailer.) Inspect all of the brake lines, the tires and the wiring.
Anybody else got suggestions?
I'd add the following items for annual care -
Check the mast base plate and re-silicone if necessary. (Water intrusion there is a real pain)
Do the same thing for the stantions.
Replace every o-ring, rin-ding, and /or cotter pin in a critical load-bearing position.
Check your pintles for cracks or signs of failure.
Check the pintle brackets for any sign they need to be re-sealed. I'd use 5200 in this application.
Remove the spreaders and check the spreader bracket for any weld cracks.
Check the gooseneck bracket for any looseness or cracking.
Inspect every wire rigging terminal for any sign of corrosion or cracking.
Resilicone any loose screws in the hatch or companionway board tracks.
Look for any cracks or dings in the board. We try to ID them in the Fall, let them dry out, and fix them in the Spring.
Finally, don't neglect the trailer. Bleed the brake lines. Replace the fluid if you've not done so in the past several years. Regrease the bearings. (We do this every time we use the trailer.) Inspect all of the brake lines, the tires and the wiring.
Anybody else got suggestions?
Best wishes,
Tom
Tom
Aside from all of the routine maintenance that have been well documented by both Tom’s, I have the following on my list…
Upgrade Harken Trav. From hi-load small boat to med-boat series after small boat car exploded last season
Replace topping lift with new line and snap shackle (current one is getting tired)
Shorten other halyards and re-tie shackles so fresh rope will be on the sheaves and in the clutches
Purchase and wire in new electrical panel (old one getting scary)
Find a better way to secure the battery (last year it broke loose)
Find a better way to secure the head (last year it also broke loose – talk about being “sewered†at the mark)
Possible upgrade of the backstay system (jury is still out on this one)
Install cockpit beer holders in strategic locations
I am certain there is more…that is some of the projects pending…
Upgrade Harken Trav. From hi-load small boat to med-boat series after small boat car exploded last season
Replace topping lift with new line and snap shackle (current one is getting tired)
Shorten other halyards and re-tie shackles so fresh rope will be on the sheaves and in the clutches
Purchase and wire in new electrical panel (old one getting scary)
Find a better way to secure the battery (last year it broke loose)
Find a better way to secure the head (last year it also broke loose – talk about being “sewered†at the mark)
Possible upgrade of the backstay system (jury is still out on this one)
Install cockpit beer holders in strategic locations
I am certain there is more…that is some of the projects pending…
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- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2003 12:06 pm
Offseason?
No of season here! Took the boat out last week and trying to get everything done, and back in, for first race, this Sunday. Oh well, small price to pay.
Purr-Fect
262
262
Rudee, You saved the most important for last. Last year we put 2 drink olders in the forward plate over the board - the bowworker was constantly losing beers over the side!
This winter we are tuning up the trailer, new bow bracket, relocate the winch to avoid chafe of the strap, spare tire mount (also aquire a spare).
We are shopping for some bright red swimming noodles to use as rail cushions.
We are upgrading our backstay to spectra. The kit is built, we will put it on at launch. We spent about $120 for parts and assembled it ourselves.
Skipper bought a new handheld VHF ('cause he wanted one!)
Motor (can't mention it's name here - something like '@#%W@') will get a thorough tune-up (not just a new plug).
The list has on it to replace the downhaul block on the forecabin. The spring to hold it upright has gotten caught on things (feet, sails, lines, etc.) and has become distended. The whole thing needs to be replaced.
Fortunately, HT is in a barn and we just have to bring out a heater (read 12-pack) to work on her.
Cheers!
This winter we are tuning up the trailer, new bow bracket, relocate the winch to avoid chafe of the strap, spare tire mount (also aquire a spare).
We are shopping for some bright red swimming noodles to use as rail cushions.
We are upgrading our backstay to spectra. The kit is built, we will put it on at launch. We spent about $120 for parts and assembled it ourselves.
Skipper bought a new handheld VHF ('cause he wanted one!)
Motor (can't mention it's name here - something like '@#%W@') will get a thorough tune-up (not just a new plug).
The list has on it to replace the downhaul block on the forecabin. The spring to hold it upright has gotten caught on things (feet, sails, lines, etc.) and has become distended. The whole thing needs to be replaced.
Fortunately, HT is in a barn and we just have to bring out a heater (read 12-pack) to work on her.
Cheers!
Question for you on your Winter Projects
Rudeman,
What electrical panel are you looking at? I would like to do likewise, but have not found anything that would provide enough circuits in the mounting space.
"Purchase and wire in new electrical panel (old one getting scary)"
Bob Kirsten
robert_kirsten@hotmail.com
What electrical panel are you looking at? I would like to do likewise, but have not found anything that would provide enough circuits in the mounting space.
"Purchase and wire in new electrical panel (old one getting scary)"
Bob Kirsten
robert_kirsten@hotmail.com
That is a great idea for the beer holders ! The best part is that if they spill you are self-lubing the 'trunk ! (kidding)Tim Bosma wrote:Rudee, You saved the most important for last. Last year we put 2 drink olders in the forward plate over the board - the bowworker was constantly losing beers over the side!
This winter we are tuning up the trailer, new bow bracket, relocate the winch to avoid chafe of the strap, spare tire mount (also aquire a spare).
We are shopping for some bright red swimming noodles to use as rail cushions.
We are upgrading our backstay to spectra. The kit is built, we will put it on at launch. We spent about $120 for parts and assembled it ourselves.
Skipper bought a new handheld VHF ('cause he wanted one!)
Motor (can't mention it's name here - something like '@#%W@') will get a thorough tune-up (not just a new plug).
The list has on it to replace the downhaul block on the forecabin. The spring to hold it upright has gotten caught on things (feet, sails, lines, etc.) and has become distended. The whole thing needs to be replaced.
Fortunately, HT is in a barn and we just have to bring out a heater (read 12-pack) to work on her.
Cheers!
My foredeck gal used swimming noodles and zap straps as rails cushions...despite being ugly, they seem to work and only cost around $10. Unlike the other boat here that went with plumpers pipe foam and custom made subrella covers at a cost of something like $300. However it does look far more sexy.
For a downhaul block we used a pair of Harken 40 mm Carbo-Standups...we mounted them in front of the hatch and used stainless fairleads to lead the downhaul to either side of the cabin top. This way you get better leverage on the pole, and being 2:1 from either side, it is easy to quickly adjust and always have the pole taught. I found the OEM system to be too "sky" happy.
Cheers,
Rudy
P.S. Spectra backstay works great, but they hum like crazy when cranked.
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- Location: Norwalk, CT
No bolts on mine. Odyssey is tarped for the winter and it will be a few weeks before I uncover and start my mast painting and go over the bottom. Will send photo as soon as I can. Link below is for what I believe is a photo of the same one. It looks original, 6" base x 7" high, and works well. If memory serves me correct it was an ST-30.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAILBOAT ... enameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAILBOAT ... enameZWDVW
Stef
Odyssey #146
Odyssey #146
Self Tailer disassembly
My self tailers are Barient 19ST's
It has been too long since I did it but I believe you remove the retaining ring and washer from the top of the winch and use a soft mallet and tap the line lifter arm counter clockwise to thread it off of the center spindle.
As you spin it off you will need to raise the drum until the line lifter is free.
If you email me at tfennell1@msn.com I will email you with the jpg of the instructions. If they are Barient, an Australian company bought the line and claims to sell parts for them but I have had zero success trying to get pricing or order parts.
http://www.arco-winches.com/index.html
It has been too long since I did it but I believe you remove the retaining ring and washer from the top of the winch and use a soft mallet and tap the line lifter arm counter clockwise to thread it off of the center spindle.
As you spin it off you will need to raise the drum until the line lifter is free.
If you email me at tfennell1@msn.com I will email you with the jpg of the instructions. If they are Barient, an Australian company bought the line and claims to sell parts for them but I have had zero success trying to get pricing or order parts.
http://www.arco-winches.com/index.html
Re: Self Tailer disassembly
This is what Gary found out, and it worked for him. The pic referenced by Stef shows the newest design that has a threaded retaining ring, I doubt if she has that.Guest wrote:My self tailers are Barient 19ST's
It has been too long since I did it but I believe you remove the retaining ring and washer from the top of the winch and use a soft mallet and tap the line lifter arm counter clockwise to thread it off of the center spindle.
As you spin it off you will need to raise the drum until the line lifter is free.
If you email me at tfennell1@msn.com I will email you with the jpg of the instructions. If they are Barient, an Australian company bought the line and claims to sell parts for them but I have had zero success trying to get pricing or order parts.
http://www.arco-winches.com/index.html