Spar Maintenance

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:46 pm

I am working on repainting my mast and boom. I would like to get some opinions from the class.
1. Machine Screws or Rivets? What is the consensus for attaching components such as the Spreader Bracket and Spinaker Pole Ring to the mast?
Both the Spinaker Ring and Spreader Bracket on my mast are machine screws.
2. The stainless metal "Guard" around the tang where the forestay attaches to the mast. Does it serve a useful purpose?
3. Layers of paint? Primer? Zinc Chromate? Etching the Aluminum before applying primer? Best spar paint?
4. Sheave replacement? Choice of Sheaves for halyards etc.
5. Steaming light and Anchor light choices?
6. VHF antenna and transmission line (co-ax cable.)
7. Any other comments, advice, ideas etc.

I am taking my spreader bracket to NewJSI in St. Pete for a rebuild and repaint.

A suggestion has been made to add a track to the mast so the Spinnaker pole can be adjusted up and down according to need. Is this class legal?

Thanks.

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 9:07 am

The mast has been completely stripped to bare metal. I spoke with several people who had differing opinions on the Aluma Prep etching step. The problem being getting the mast dry enough to paint before the recommended etching interval expires. My painter opted out of the etching step and we went with a fresh sanding with 120 grit, a wash with denatured alcohol and a tack rag.
Two coats of primer to cover the little runs on the first go around and then two coats of topcoat finish.
There were some minor runs on the first topcoat so we sanded them down and reapplied the topcoat finish.
The mast and boom are now painted with Insignia Coatings Snow White paint and looks very, very good.
I took all of the stainless steel fittings off and cleaned them up with Boeshield's Rust Away (Phosphoric Acid cleaner.)
NewJSI re-aligned and re-welded my spreader bracket and repainted the spreaders with Awl Grip Snow White.
I am hoping to have a mast raising by the end of next week.

This week I had to testify at THE FCC INDEPENDENT PANEL REVIEWING THE IMPACT OF HURRICANE KATRINA ON COMMUNICATIONS NETWORKS
held in Jackson, MS Monday and Tuesday and I'm going to Washington DC tomorrow for the final session of the Media Security and Reliability Council on Friday. After that, I'm done with "work" for a few weeks so I will be able to again focus on Florasena.

Post by **Tom Elsen** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 10:33 am

Thanks for the info in your post.
Just wondering, is the Insignia catalyzed?

As far as the spreader bracker and (especially) the boom gooseneck, I'd recommend affixing them with machine screws. Since you're near salt water, make an attempt to isolate the two dissimilar metals with Loctite or something like it.

My own recommendation is to keep as much stuff out of the mast as possible. The foredeck lamp is mostly useless, except for beating up sails. Put the VHF antenna on the stern rail. You might lose some broadcast distance, but there's a MUCH lesser chance that the antenna gets broken just when you need it the most. Just MHO.

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 10:58 am

The Insignia paint is two part epoxy.
The masthead light is required when under power at night in coastal waters and inshore.
I have a VHF antenna at the stern.
You are absolutely right about the loctite and machine screw set up.
Thanks for the reply, and I am so happy that the forum is back and we didn't lose all this valuable information.
Do we have a method for backing it up in case we get bombed again? It wouldn't be a bad idea for several class members to have an archive copy updated every month or so. I will also propose this to the webmaster.
Bye

Post by **fleck** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:16 pm

I made a backup while fixing the Forum. I also put a monthly reminder on my outlook calendar to do backups.

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:21 pm

Great!!

DaveR · Post by **DaveR** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:25 pm

So you guys are saying to replace the boom to mast plate with machine screws instead of the pop rivets ? Do you remember what size?
Thanks
DaveR

dave · Post by **dave** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:41 pm

The class rules don't alow moving the spin pole eye, so a track is academic.

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:40 am

The original post is from January 2006. I never did add the track, saw no immediate reason for doing so, although I am considering it now to give me a bit more adjustment when single handing a whisker pole.
Class rules allow for the spinnaker ring to be set in place on the track to class dimensions.

To answer DaveR's question...
The machine screws are 1/4 x 20 stainless, short enough to just go through the mast extrusion without interferring with any lines inside the mast. They do not need to be long as the only "grip" they have is the mast extrusion threads. Locktite or some other agent to prevent corrosion and "lock" the screw in is highly recommended. Do not overtighten or the aluminum threads will strip and you will have to either use the next size up machine screw or go with the pop rivets.

I bedded all of my mast attachments with 5200 whether or not I pop riveted them or used machine screws.

The mast paint is holding up very well after one year in a salt water environment.

The alternative of using 1/4 " stainless pop rivets will work as well. It requires a really big pop rivet setting tool to set the rivets properly. They are easily drilled out when it becomes necessary to remove the boom from the mast.

Post by **Tom Elsen** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:01 pm

Hi Sara

May I suggest using 3M 4200?

That 5200 is great stuff....but wickedly tough if you need to remove the item.

Just MHO

Tom

dave · Post by **dave** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:24 pm

Here's a link that sells 1/4" monel rivets. Yes they take a big gun [or pneumatic] to pop but they are strong, quick and the most corrosion resistant of the fasteners.

http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... re_Code=MS

You are correct about the track. Class rules that reverse themselves in the next sentence don't make much sense though!

Dave

grandillusion · Post by **grandillusion** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:10 pm

as long as the eye is not moved during class racing, and its in stock location marked with arrows, it's kosher. I feel it is a good addition, as I like the 36 " of 1 " track and schaefer eye I added last fall, the adjustment is nice, and I did attach it with SS flat head 1/4-20 x 1/2" bolts with Loctite 242

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 8:00 am

Tom - Ah, the 4200 / 5200 question. Which to use? Which to use?....
I just happened to have an opened tube of 5200 nearby and have no plans to remove any of the attached items for the foreseeable future.

The 5200 gives me a little bit of extra holding power in case something "untoward" happens.

G.I. - What did you bed your track with?

Tigerlily · Post by **Tigerlily** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 8:07 am

Dave,
Thanks for the link to Murrays. I didn't have that one before.
And, yes, Monel is a better choice.

I got my Pop Rivet tool from Fastenal.

grandillusion · Post by **grandillusion** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 4:34 pm

the beauty of fresh water, I didn't, and because I won't have time to repaint till next year, then it will be whatever tube of 3M is handy or open

S2 7.9 Meter Class Association