I need to replace my spinlock for the keel. Switched to 3/8" line last year and it's too small a diameter to lock it in. Would be nice to have a spinlock that works. Is there a recommended model for the keel and 3/8" line?
Also, what is the recommended length of the Genoa & spinnaker halyard?
Spinlock Rope Clutch for Daggerboard
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Spinlock Rope Clutch for Daggerboard
Stef
Odyssey #146
Odyssey #146
clutch
Stef, try lubing the axle that the handle and cam operate on. In my experience, more cams slip because the cam is not dropping all the way [from friction] that anything else. There's alot of side load from the cam onto the axle. they REALLY need the be kept clean and lubed to work properly. The spray Super Lube works very well and doesn't attract dirt. Sailcoat will work too.
Here are the specs from this website, IMHO the diameters are mostly outdated [too large, high tech line] but the lengths should help you out. The most glaring error is the weight. 4,250? The class rules say 4,400 [IB] and 4,600 [OB].
Dave
Manufacturer's Specifications for the S2 7.9 :
General Overall Dimensions:
Rigging Dimensions:
LOA .................................... 25' 11"
DWL.................................... 21' 8"
Beam .................................... 9' 0"
Max. Draft ............................ 5' 0"
Min. Draft ............................. 1' 1.5"
Displacement ........................ 4250 lbs.
Ballast .................................. 1750 lbs.
Ballast.Board ........................ 600 lbs.
Sail Area .............................. 329 sq. ft.
Headroom ............................ 5' 5"
Cockpit Lenth ....................... 8' 0"
"I" Dinemsion ........................ 30.5'
"J" Dimension ........................ 9.5'
"P" Dimension ....................... 29.42'
"E" Dimension ....................... 12.25'
Item: Qty: Spec.
Main Halyard 1 3/8†x 75’
Jib Halyard 1 3/8†x 70’
Spinnaker Halyard 1 3/8†x 70’
Pole Topping Lift 1 5/16†x 55’
Keel Lift 1 3/8†x 32’
Main Sheet 1 3/8†x 60’ w/ splice
Jib Sheets 2 3/8†x 45’
Spinnaker Sheets 2 5/16†x 50’ w/shackles
Barber Haulers 2 5/16†x 15’ w/shackles
Boom Vang 1 3/8†x 25’
Backstay Adjuster 1 3/8†x 35’
Back Stay Adjuster (6:1) 1 5/16†x 60’
Traveler Line 1 5/16†x 20’
Cunningham 1
3/8†x 5’ w/splice & 3/8†x 15’
Spinnaker Pole foreguy 1 5/16†x 20’
Reef Line 1 3/8†x 35’
Boom Toping Lift 1 1/4â€x 20’
Optional Gear:
Additional Halyard 1 3/8†x 70’ Xl w/shackle
Wire Halyard Package:
Main Halyard 1 3/8†cx 50’slpiced to 5/32†x 40 w/shackle
Jib Halyard 2
3/8†x 47’ spliced to 5/32†x 36’6†w/shackle
The 6:1 backstay used the following hardware: Schaefer 78-05 pad eyes 2
Harken 082 single bullet locks 7
Harken 092 bullet cheek blocks 2
Harken 150/137 cam cleats w/ eyestraps 2
Harken 0723/16†shackles 8
Class note: Experience has shown that adding Approximately 6 feet to all halyard lengths will allow for splicing and sufficiently long trails. Also, note if you are using the halyards to raise/lower the mast, the length must be increased.
Return to S2 7.9 home page.
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MES
updated: March 12, 2000
Here are the specs from this website, IMHO the diameters are mostly outdated [too large, high tech line] but the lengths should help you out. The most glaring error is the weight. 4,250? The class rules say 4,400 [IB] and 4,600 [OB].
Dave
Manufacturer's Specifications for the S2 7.9 :
General Overall Dimensions:
Rigging Dimensions:
LOA .................................... 25' 11"
DWL.................................... 21' 8"
Beam .................................... 9' 0"
Max. Draft ............................ 5' 0"
Min. Draft ............................. 1' 1.5"
Displacement ........................ 4250 lbs.
Ballast .................................. 1750 lbs.
Ballast.Board ........................ 600 lbs.
Sail Area .............................. 329 sq. ft.
Headroom ............................ 5' 5"
Cockpit Lenth ....................... 8' 0"
"I" Dinemsion ........................ 30.5'
"J" Dimension ........................ 9.5'
"P" Dimension ....................... 29.42'
"E" Dimension ....................... 12.25'
Item: Qty: Spec.
Main Halyard 1 3/8†x 75’
Jib Halyard 1 3/8†x 70’
Spinnaker Halyard 1 3/8†x 70’
Pole Topping Lift 1 5/16†x 55’
Keel Lift 1 3/8†x 32’
Main Sheet 1 3/8†x 60’ w/ splice
Jib Sheets 2 3/8†x 45’
Spinnaker Sheets 2 5/16†x 50’ w/shackles
Barber Haulers 2 5/16†x 15’ w/shackles
Boom Vang 1 3/8†x 25’
Backstay Adjuster 1 3/8†x 35’
Back Stay Adjuster (6:1) 1 5/16†x 60’
Traveler Line 1 5/16†x 20’
Cunningham 1
3/8†x 5’ w/splice & 3/8†x 15’
Spinnaker Pole foreguy 1 5/16†x 20’
Reef Line 1 3/8†x 35’
Boom Toping Lift 1 1/4â€x 20’
Optional Gear:
Additional Halyard 1 3/8†x 70’ Xl w/shackle
Wire Halyard Package:
Main Halyard 1 3/8†cx 50’slpiced to 5/32†x 40 w/shackle
Jib Halyard 2
3/8†x 47’ spliced to 5/32†x 36’6†w/shackle
The 6:1 backstay used the following hardware: Schaefer 78-05 pad eyes 2
Harken 082 single bullet locks 7
Harken 092 bullet cheek blocks 2
Harken 150/137 cam cleats w/ eyestraps 2
Harken 0723/16†shackles 8
Class note: Experience has shown that adding Approximately 6 feet to all halyard lengths will allow for splicing and sufficiently long trails. Also, note if you are using the halyards to raise/lower the mast, the length must be increased.
Return to S2 7.9 home page.
officers** Membership** events** race results** cruising** fleets** 4 sale** photos** mail** rules** other info
MES
updated: March 12, 2000
-
Dale Eager
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 4:13 pm
- Location: Falls Church, VA
Other posts on this board (perhaps from the old version) suggest 5/16" line has less friction in the blocks and makes raising the board easier. I use 5/16" trophy braid and the spinlock clutch rated for 4 - 8mm (5/32 - 5/16"). You always get the best grip at the upper end of the line sizes. The trophy braid has lower breaking strength than higher tech lines, but it is cheap and has a nice grip. I replace it every other year just to be safe. This combination works great for me, YMMV.
Coup de Vent #43429 (hull #43)
same
The smallest line size that is usable for any application will always have the least friction and go through the blocks easier. In my business, I have to continually convince people of this, especially the big boat [ for a lake] types when it comes to the mainsheet or vang. They think that they need a larger line to grip and don't believe me when I tell them that a smaller line will be EASIER to sheet because of the reduced friction in the blocks, so it actaully takes LESS effort to get the same job done. The same is true with the board. They always come back to me and agree that it's a better way to go.
Dave
Dave
iHi Stef. I know that some folks just love snap shackles, after all, they are cool gadjets, BUT I stopped using ANY shackle on spinnaker halyards at least 20-25 years ago because of how often they came open on the hoist. The same with spinnaker sheets. The heck of it is that the only time that a snap shackle MIGHT not hurt your spinnaker trim [weight on the clews] is moderate to heavy air and these are the very conditions in which they pop open! I sailed a fiend's [I HOPE we're still friends!] J22 this winter series and he had a snap shackle spliced to the spinnaker halyard. I told him that it would be best for our program to cut it off but he just couldn't do it, so we were taping it shut. One day in beautiful wind he forgot to tape it and I forgot to make sure he did and you guessed it, IT CAME OPEN on our first hoist on a WLWLWLWL course! We sailed the whole race having to trade the jib halyard back and forth [VERY SLOW] and even though we sailed very well that day, with that albatross around or neck we missed correcting to first by something like 33 second. That one little item cost us the race, big time! Second, even if you tape the shackle shut, it takes less time to untie a bowline than to untape the shackle if you have to do a sail swap. I know that there are some younger. smaller, more macho types that might have climbed the mast to retreive the halyard, but that ain't happening on most boats.
IMO, snap shackles on the genoa halyard are WAY overkill for boats in the 7.9's size/weight range. There is just not that much load on the thing. A halyard shakle with a captive/spring loaded pin is much lighter, does the same job, and I've never had one come open when raising a sail.
You may already know this but for those of you who don't and/or those of you who might think that weight aloft is no big deal; 1 oz on the far end of a 30.5' takes 30.5 oz's on the rail to counteract. Muliply that times 2 for the spinnaker AND the true weight of the shackles [about 2.25 oz each] and you come up with 137 oz's, or over 8.5 lbs! This is just the two shackles at the top of the headstay. Add in the main halyard a good bit higher up and you easily have OVER 10 lbs of moment up there. This is basically moot in flat water but in waves the masthead is pitching and yawing constantly and at the end of each cycle you are stuck with the same boat and crew righting arm trying to counteract that force. That extra pitching and yawing is VERY detrimental to the performanc of the boat!
Finally [and I know I will get some lip service on this too] I would rather tie than splice any shackle that is used for a few very good reasons. First, With today's high tech lines that cost $$$, the theoretical difference in strength between a splice and a knot is not even an issue at the loads that we are speaking of, and even at that, unless said high tech line is spliced with a difficult and $$ core to core splice instead of a regular eyesplice, you're just kidding yourself because in the latter, the core is CUT just inside the bottom of the eye! The core is what you shelled out all of the $$$ for and where the large % of the line's strength comes from and now that's not even what's holding the shackle on the end!!!!!!! Second, the taper that has to go down inside the rope on an eye splice makes the line much thicker for a good distance under the eye. If your sailmaker has cut the genoa/jib to the max usable hoist, that thick part actually goes over the sheeve and into the mast, which can cause [depending on line diameter and sheeve size/type] problems in getting the genoa halyard QUICKLY set to the correct tension at the bottom mark. Third, that thick section wears as fast or faster than the edge of a knot might, and when it comes time to redo the end you must remove about 2' of line to make a new eyesplice. With a knot, you can literally just retie the bowline at slightly different places on the line and move the wear around. Even when you wind up needing to remove a badly worn section and start over, you're only cutting off inches of your exspensive line instead of feet. I know that it's standard practice among many sailors to buy their halyards MANY feet to long so that they can redo a few splices over time but personally, I would rather save the mony AND they extra tails in the cockpit, or where ever.
Dave
IMO, snap shackles on the genoa halyard are WAY overkill for boats in the 7.9's size/weight range. There is just not that much load on the thing. A halyard shakle with a captive/spring loaded pin is much lighter, does the same job, and I've never had one come open when raising a sail.
You may already know this but for those of you who don't and/or those of you who might think that weight aloft is no big deal; 1 oz on the far end of a 30.5' takes 30.5 oz's on the rail to counteract. Muliply that times 2 for the spinnaker AND the true weight of the shackles [about 2.25 oz each] and you come up with 137 oz's, or over 8.5 lbs! This is just the two shackles at the top of the headstay. Add in the main halyard a good bit higher up and you easily have OVER 10 lbs of moment up there. This is basically moot in flat water but in waves the masthead is pitching and yawing constantly and at the end of each cycle you are stuck with the same boat and crew righting arm trying to counteract that force. That extra pitching and yawing is VERY detrimental to the performanc of the boat!
Finally [and I know I will get some lip service on this too] I would rather tie than splice any shackle that is used for a few very good reasons. First, With today's high tech lines that cost $$$, the theoretical difference in strength between a splice and a knot is not even an issue at the loads that we are speaking of, and even at that, unless said high tech line is spliced with a difficult and $$ core to core splice instead of a regular eyesplice, you're just kidding yourself because in the latter, the core is CUT just inside the bottom of the eye! The core is what you shelled out all of the $$$ for and where the large % of the line's strength comes from and now that's not even what's holding the shackle on the end!!!!!!! Second, the taper that has to go down inside the rope on an eye splice makes the line much thicker for a good distance under the eye. If your sailmaker has cut the genoa/jib to the max usable hoist, that thick part actually goes over the sheeve and into the mast, which can cause [depending on line diameter and sheeve size/type] problems in getting the genoa halyard QUICKLY set to the correct tension at the bottom mark. Third, that thick section wears as fast or faster than the edge of a knot might, and when it comes time to redo the end you must remove about 2' of line to make a new eyesplice. With a knot, you can literally just retie the bowline at slightly different places on the line and move the wear around. Even when you wind up needing to remove a badly worn section and start over, you're only cutting off inches of your exspensive line instead of feet. I know that it's standard practice among many sailors to buy their halyards MANY feet to long so that they can redo a few splices over time but personally, I would rather save the mony AND they extra tails in the cockpit, or where ever.
Dave