I posted this as a reply to an ongoing thread, but got not responses, so I am starting a new Topic and trying again. Thanks for any replys.
I am also getting ready to rig my vang leads back to the cockpit as noted elsewhere on the forum.
I need to add another cam cleat for the back of the cabin top on the port side.
I will also replace the original 1982 vintage cam cleats on the boat including the ones for installed on the front of the boom for the reefing tack line, since this cam cleat one is no longer spring activated for closing down on the line after pulling in.
My boat is stored hundreds of miles away and so I am looking for recommendations for replacing the cam cleats with another or the same that have exactly the same center-line distance to the existing fastener holes, since I want to match the holes on the boom (that is metal).
I believe the old hardware is Schaefer. ???
I was looking for info under the web site documents and in the forum, but have not found it yet.
Can any one help specify new cam cleats to fit the old holes?
These Schaefer cam cleats look similar: Sure Grip Small Stainless Steel Cam Cleat 70-29 …..at a whoomphing $95.05 a piece.
kevin in tucson
hull#29
Help with Cam Cleats
Moderators: sderby, Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Re: Help with Cam Cleats
The holes for the OEM cam cleats match up with the standard Harken 150 cam cleat. The Harken cleats have a higher profile and require a different head so you will need new (longer) bolts. I have not replaced my cleats on the boom, so I am not sure if the higher profile will create any clearance issues, but I know the hole patterns line up.
A side note: The reason I know this is I have a new Harken cam cleat on my rudder box to hold up the rudder and I installed one of the original OEM cleats on the back side using the same bolts as the primary cleat. I use this cleat as a back up since I don't want my faired rudder to come uncleated and meet the pavement in the dry sail area.
Hope this helps.
Drew
A side note: The reason I know this is I have a new Harken cam cleat on my rudder box to hold up the rudder and I installed one of the original OEM cleats on the back side using the same bolts as the primary cleat. I use this cleat as a back up since I don't want my faired rudder to come uncleated and meet the pavement in the dry sail area.
Hope this helps.
Drew
Re: Help with Cam Cleats
Thanks for the reply Drew!
...and yes the hardware???
Do you have a spec on the bolts you used?
For replacing the cam cleats on the aft edge of the dog-house, do you also have a length?
Boat is in Mexico and I have to purchase the stainless hardware in Tucson before heading south as it is hard to find down there.
kevin
...and yes the hardware???
Do you have a spec on the bolts you used?
For replacing the cam cleats on the aft edge of the dog-house, do you also have a length?
Boat is in Mexico and I have to purchase the stainless hardware in Tucson before heading south as it is hard to find down there.
kevin
Re: Help with Cam Cleats
You can go up to a #10 in terms of diameter. I would go with a finer thread such as a 10-32 as you have more flexibility in terms of torque. I am not sure on length, but I would guess 2-1/2''. I would go longer (to be safe) and cut them off with a Dremel or fein saw after you have the washer and nut on.
Hope that helps.
Drew
Hope that helps.
Drew
Re: Help with Cam Cleats
Perfect.
Thanks for that!
Thanks for that!
Re: Help with Cam Cleats
Let me suggest that you consider using the low profile, rubber coated fairleads for the Harken 150 cleats.
Years ago I had the older polished stainless fairleads on my San Juam 21. One of my crew slipped and
fell during a jibe. The metal fairleads cut him badly. I wouldn't want to happen to anyone else.
Sorry, I can't do anything about the price, though.
Years ago I had the older polished stainless fairleads on my San Juam 21. One of my crew slipped and
fell during a jibe. The metal fairleads cut him badly. I wouldn't want to happen to anyone else.
Sorry, I can't do anything about the price, though.