INTERIOR PAINTING

Mark Gutteridge · Post by **Mark Gutteridge** » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:35 pm

This is not a new topic.
But it has been a few years since GARGLE BLASTER removed their carpet and painted the inside of their boat.Last winter I removed the carpet from HUNTING PARTY and asked for some insight about removal of the carpet and the contact cement residue.I did not get much info on the removal odf the glue residue and managed to get rid of it.
However now I am in the position of painting.
I would like opinions on what products that I might consider for the job.
I have removed all of the glue residue,but, you can see the glass fibers and it is not a totally smooth surface.So I think I need a base coat that would also serve as a buildup. Then a topcoat needs to be applied.
Thanks for the thoughts in advance!
Chimo;
Guts

grandillusion · Post by **grandillusion** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:32 am

the best base coat for bottoms is universal for top sides, and expensive, Interlux interprotect 2001 ! and the results sprayed correctly cannot be stated in words alone, but no one would expect you to spray in your cabin, roll it on, but sand with 80 grit first

dave · Post by **dave** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:11 am

Check this out.

http://acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14119

It comes in white and colors. Also, look at some of the wall coatings. All waterbased products; easy clean up and very low odor AND toxicity.

rogerssp · Post by **rogerssp** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:30 am

I remember the prior discussion on glue removal. Options were nasty for an enclosed space. Any tips from your experience?

dave · Post by **dave** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:52 am

A GOOD respirator! Seriously, I have to do this myself as one of the MANY projects that need doing on the boat that I and my partner own. There are many new citrus based products on the market that are powerful strippers/cleaners/degreasers. My wife and I used one of these to strip a hardwood floor in our house. It was not as aggressive as the traditional Methylene Chloride based products but it did the job and is WAY LESS TOXIC. It should work [given time] on contact cement too. Stay away from Methylene Chloride if possible. It is nasty stuff and a strong carcinogen.

Mark Gutteridge · Post by **Mark Gutteridge** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:36 pm

I agree with Dave.A full face respirator that has the cartridges approved for the product you are using is absolutely mandatory.
I tried several products including furniture strippers but I ended up using some Dupont spray gun cleaner.Very toxic.
It still took lots of elbow grease and lots of rags.The contact cement tends to gum up making the removal even tougher.
I also installed a 24 inch fan in the hatch to move as much air as possible.
To the suggestion of using interprotect on the interior.I don;t feel that would be the best and easiest product to use for that particular application.I have used it many times on boat bottoms but I think there should be a paint based product that would be easier to apply and still get a good build up.
I am still open to suggestions.
Guts.

dave · Post by **dave** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:10 am

That's why I sent the coatings link! As to using fans, Be CAREFUL! Methylene Chloride is not flammable but almost every other stripper type of chemical is [another plus for the citrus based products]. Your typical fan has exposed brushes that by their very nature make sparks as the motor runs. Check out the products on the bottom of this page. Even if a product says something like "not for use on fiberglass" a little common sense goes a long way. They are trying to satisfy the lawyers out there. Just don't do large areas at once and start with light coats until you find out what it takes to do the job.

http://www.ecoclean-az.com/Main%20Pages ... ppers.html