Easy Rudder Pull Down

[Tom Line]

I had several emails regarding this pull-down arrangement for my rudder when I mentioned it late last year. Sorry for the LATE posting. It's pretty simple, so I'd be rather surprised if someone else hadn't already done it to their boat, but at least those who were interested will have this sketch to get an idea of what I did.

This ends up being a 2:1 purchase, which is just enough for me to pull the rudder down. It'd be very easy to change this to a 3:1 or 4:1 by changing or adding blocks. If you're like me, you're sick of leaning over the back of the boat and pushing the rudder down - this also eliminates the need to use the pin. If you ever run aground, I'd wager the failure point will be the eye pulling the screws out of the rudder - a pretty simple fix.

[Quinn McCarthy]

Great idea you have there Tom.

We have been looking for an idea for keeping the rudder down.

Thanks

Quinn

[Tom Line]

Thanks!

I started cruising the boat a lot last year, and one my family's favorite things is to bring the boat right up to the beach and go swimming.

Unfortunately that means I have to yank the pin when we go in, and force the rudder back down as we leave and repin it. This was a much more useable system.

[Bob Kirsten]

Tom,

Love the hold down, and will definitely rig it this year. Thanks for the excellent drawing, which is hard to describe in words, but easy with the pic. No more Irish Jig over the stern trying to get the rudder down far enough to get the pin in. In fact, as you say, no more pin (bent at that).

Bob Kirsten
DD Mau
#438

[yves springuel]

I have a similar arrangment except 1-1 and the jam cleat is mounted on a pivot attached to a crib and kicks up when I run aground. It's a small boat part I got at Anapolis Sailing, and quite usefull as I have to kick down and up each time I go in and out of my dock.
I do find myself having better piece of mind inserting the pin in rough weather.

[dave]

I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade here, but: sailing ANY boat without having the rudder blade in EXACTLY the same rake position every time WILL result in less than desirable results as far a feel, helm load and performance are concerned. If you have never raced cats like I did for 20 years you may not be aware of just how small a change in blade rake is required to totally change the feel of the helm. Even on a blade that only extends 2+ feet below the transom, moving the tip of the blade only 1/8" fore and aft can make the difference between having two handed weather helm and "auto jibe" lee helm!!!

No matter what type of pull down arrangement you use, pinning the blade is the only way to have it work exactly the same way every time AND guarantee that it will stay that way over the course of the day.

[Quinn McCarthy]

I built ours over the weekend. I did it 3:1 by putting a block on the bolt for the tiller handle and a block with becket down below. It seams to be functioning just fine. The first race is on Wednesday. We can put it through the paces then. I just used 1/4" sta set for the line. Our new boat came with a rudder hook. Our other boat didn't have one. With the rudder all the way up we still have about an inch of the blade in the water. Does anybody else have that problem?

Thanks

Quinn

[Mookie]

This sounds like a great idea, but the drawing is gone. Does anyone have a photo, image, or description? Putting the rudder down is a challenge and it would be nice to have a better way of doing it than hanging over the back. Thanks!

[Southern Gales]

How can we view the Gif? The original post attachment is no longer linked. Even though it's over ten years old, it would be nice to view it.

[LI7.9]

Anyone with a pic or drawing of the above mentioned rudder mod.?

[FEVER]

It has been a year. Can I ask LI7.9's question again?
Does anyone have the photo, or a sketch of the OP's rudder lift system?

Also, while I have the floor, can someone recommend a good source for synthetic backstay with
ferrells braided into the ends?

And, I have broken backstay flicker battens on several other boats. I am considering mounting
the batten at an angle above the top plate on the mast to distribute the bend over a longer area.
If anyone has tried this, I would appreciate your thoughts and even a photo or sketch.

Thanks
Sid R #17

[MnM20]

I can only comment on the backstay... I found UHMWPE (Spectra/Dyneema) for cheap on ebay as winch cables and did all the splices myself. 12 strand is incredibly easy to do the eyesplices on and there are about a hundred videos on how to do it on youtube.

I used the lengths that were on the Hot Tamale website for the spectra, 30 feet for the upper section between the mast and the ferrule, and 8 feet for the cascade. The nice thing about a ferrule over a block is that if the ferrule fails, you still have the eye splice that went around it to absorb the load and get you home. If a cascade block fails, you might be trying to duck from a falling mast above your head.

I have attached a picture of what mine looks like. I have plenty of purchase to bone the thing down real hard and it eases out real nice.

[FEVER]

MnM20, thanks for your info.
I raced San Juan 21s for years. When they approved a split, adjustable backstay a safety cable was stipulated in parallel to the purchase blocks / line to prevent losing the mast because of a problem with the purchase. I incorporated it into my S2 backstays out of habit.

Still hoping to see what that rudder hold down looks like...........