Hey y'all. I apologize for being a dillhole but someone sent me an e-mail wanting a diagram showing how I rigged the board tackle.
I accidentally erased that message and I can't figure out how to post the diagram on here so if you will send me another PM I will try to get it to you. Sorry for the delay!
Dave
Dave - I changed the subject line of your post. I hope that's OK. If not just leave me a message. Tom Elsen
Dave, I'd like to see the diagram too. I assume you've increased the purchase !! I need to do the same. e-mail fchadsey@gulftel.com. I'd appreciate it.
Fred, I didn't have to increase the purchase but you could if needed. There's really not anything earth shaking about it EXCEPT for replacing everything with roller bearing/ball bearing sheaves and blocks, a much smaller line and replacing the turning block on the deck with a ratchet, which really helps with safety and feel when lowering the board. Everyone's strength is different and so are winches on how they are maintained but with a self tailer, I can raise the board with one arm while sitting in the cockpit.
I'll e-mail you the diagram but everything you need to know has basically been said.
Send me the info on the daggerboard purchase and hardware. Mine is just too tough. Also, my tang is bent a little aft and does not want to line up with the slot for pinning (also makes the hoist line feed through the sheeves at an angle) Any reccomendations? You can e-mail me at george.cushing@grubb-ellis.com
Send me the info on the daggerboard purchase and hardware. Mine is just too tough. Also, my tang is bent a little aft and does not want to line up with the slot for pinning (also makes the hoist line feed through the sheeves at an angle) Any reccomendations? You can e-mail me at george.cushing@grubb-ellis.com
Regards,
George
George,
Bend it back. But..... When I bend the tangs I us a piece of wood wedged against the bottom of the tang to the centerboard box so it doesn't stress the board where the tang exits the centerboard. So if you need to bend it forward put the board in front of the tang.
Daggerboard hardware idea. Well, I finally got around to removing the Schaefer block on the daggerboard tang, and found another just like it at a local used boating equipment shop. If I attach both cheekblocks together on the tang (one on each side) I can fabricate a piece of stainless flat bar to hang through the pinning slot, and hang it from the pin on the tower.
Only problem is that now you can't pin the board completly up! But you can use a stainless shackle and attach the daggerboard tang to the flat bar hanging from the tower - a loss of perhaps 6 inches in the hoist.
It makes for a simple 4:1 without a fiddle block, the shortcoming is the board can't be pinned all the way up.
Only that using the same lousy blocks still leads to lots of friction, and that why the board is so hard to raise even WITH 4:1. That's also why I used the Harken 308 wire block and those same sheaves: they are roller bearing with balls between the side plates and the sheave, so friction is cut to a minimum.
Where do you place the Harken 308? Sounds to me like you tossed the Schaefer cheek block on the board tang and substituted the Harken w/ ball bearings. Sounds like you kept the original 3:1 arrangement.
Did you change out any of the shieves on the tower? Mine came with v shaped aluminum shieves on the tower using a 1/4 inch diameter pin. Only difference is that those two shieves have a teflon friction surface coating.
Runaway still has the original schaefer delrin cheek block on the deck too. - that one might be next.
I set up a couple of 7.9s with by using Harken #311 sheaves to replace all of the plastic ones, and a modified Harken #308 [added a homade becket with another small high load block on top for one more purchase] and went to 1/4 " line. The sheaves had to be shimmed with fender washers on both sides to stay in the middle of the housing and keep the line from over riding. A better method would have been to take a 3" hole saw and cut circles out of plastic coffee can lids. Anyway, the friction was reduced so much that I could SIT in the cockpit and lift the keel with one arm [self tailer]. Going to a two speed winch adds cost, weight and winching turns but doesn't address the real problem: Lousy sheaves and blocks, too large a line diameter and not enough purchase to begin with.
One note. On both of these boats the keel came up so easily that the well intentioned but overzealous crew winched the small high load block up into the lifting bracket and deformed/destroyed it. Apparently, they stopped winching when they couldn't make it move anymore, instead of when they got tired! I did some research and found a small, high load fiddle block or two from Ronstan and Lewmar that would probably take the place of the Harken #308 and smaller high load block to do the same thing, albeit with more friction.
Send me an e-mail address and I'll send you the diagram.
I wish that the board rulers would just make this a sticky because I send out this exact same info at least once every 6-10 weeks it seems.
I just finished doing this refit. I used the Harken blocks, made some spacers with some teflon type plastic we have in the shop, and it is much, much better. I can crank it up one handed. I went to a smaller/lighter line (1/4" I believe) and it is quite smooth. I plan to replace the deck block next year.
It doesn't fly up, but I was putting all of my muscle into it before. Now it seems reasonable.
Something that I forgot to add: on one of the refits I replaced the cheek block on the deck with a ratchet version. This REALLY takes the load off of the live end when lowering the board! I have done the same thing using auto ratchet cheeks on the blocks that turn the backstay control line up to the cleats. When you uncleat with a lot of load it doesn't feel like your hand is going to be sucked into the block!
Dave - I changed the subject line of your post. I hope that's OK. If not just leave me a message. Tom Elsen
