Mast Tuning Inversion

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Tim Bosma
Web Lackey
Posts: 530
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:56 pm
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Re: Mast Tuning Inversion

Post by Tim Bosma »

dave wrote: .
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Just a note of curiosity: This is the only class of boats that I have ever dealt with or read about where most all of the participants use the terms "outer and inner" instead of upper and lower for the shrouds. Where does this come from? Was there a Canadian in the wood pile back when?!?! :shock: 8) :lol: :lol:
Just a short note for clarity: The shrouds on our 7.9 attach to a single chain plate on each side. There is an inside and an outside attachment point, the inside one is used for the "lowers", and the outside one for the "uppers". When we are adjusting the turnbuckles, and happen to be looking at our fingers and the tools being used, the primary point of reference is the attachment point at the chain plate which is within our field of vision, not the attachment point along the mast far overhead.
Tim Bosma, Bosun
Hot Tamale Racing
boz@htr477.com
S2 7.9's : #477
dave
Posts: 727
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 10:39 pm
Location: Little Rock

Re: Mast Tuning Inversion

Post by dave »

Tim, that's true, but many boats have the same setup and they don't use that terminology. The upper shroud will ALWAYS lead to the outside hole for the simple reason that if it didn't the shrouds would cross!!! :shock: Therefore [at least in my mind] there's absolutely no reason to have to look up to tell which one leads where. :wink:

As I said, just curious. I still think that it has more to do with "southern" Canadian thinking......................................... :lol: :lol: 8) :wink:
dave
Posts: 727
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 10:39 pm
Location: Little Rock

Re: Mast Tuning Inversion

Post by dave »

One more thought on this subject: IF you do tune your mast the way I describe it WILL show some slight inversion in the light end with no backstay tension. Here's another time to throw the tuning guides into file 13. Most tuning guides that I've ever read have some words along the line of " never touch the backstay until "X" wind speed has been reached", or something along the same vein. This kind of wording has kept people going slow for years because if followed, these folks are missing out on the gear shifting needed to really get the most out of the boat in the lighter stuff! :oops:

It is of course very important with a large roach main to have the backstay loose in light air so the leech of the main will go through the tack without any back of the boat gyrations. this DOESN'T mean though, that it's never beneficial to use the backstay in light air!!! After a tack the main may well be too full for really good upwind work and at the same time you may need a little to a lot more tension on the headstay, so I go ahead and apply whatever tension that it takes to make the sails take on the optimal shape for the conditions. Those who sail on the smaller sized lakes know far to well that it's very possible to have winds that go from 3-8 or even 5-15 mph at times!!!!! At the lighter end of the scale just release the backstay right before a tack. This will not only power the sails up coming out of the tack but the action of releasing the backstay will also tighten the mainsail leech which adds more turning force to the back of the boat, helping to drive the boat up into the wind with less tiller action! :wink:
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