dagger board tackle

[Jim Kloss]

Since I will be pulling the board and spending money anyway, I thought it might be time to upgrade. Several people have commented that replacing the blocks with roller bearing ones makes a big difference -- anybody have part or model numbers?

Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8

[dave]

I use Harken #311 wire block sheaves to replace the stock ones. You will need to cut some shims to place between the sheaves and the side plates of the crane assembly. Coffee can lids work well for this. I used a Harken 308 to replace the bottom block on the tang, after fabricating two SS straps to fasten to the middle hole in the block when bolting it on, one one top of the block and one between the block and the tang. These were used as a becket to mount a smaller high load block to, increasing the purchase. I also drilled a new hole in the crane assembly and installed a clevis pin to use as the dead end tie off for the line, gaining a little more space in the stack. Finished off with 3/16" low stretch line to keep the friction to a minimum in the sheaves. VERY easy raising of the board with this setup. I can do it with one arm on a self tailing winch!

[Bob Kirsten]

Dave,

Sorry, I must be snow stupid here in Michigan, but I can't picture your new arrangement here. any chance you could do a before and after diagram of this change. I need to apply this.

Thanks,

Bob Kirsten
DD Mau #438

[Quinn McCarthy]

Ya Dave I would like to see that as well.

Thanks

Quinn

[Runaway#23]

Dave;

It seem that what you did was to manufacture a fiddle block of sorts by adding the ss straps. Did you consider just using two footblocks on each side of the tang instead? It would allow the use of two larger shieves and also an extra inch or two on the hoist? I have been looking for options to increase the purchase from the original setup and you seem to have alot of ideas -

[orion27]

Can you take some pictures? I'd be happy to post them

[dave]

Thanks. I can post pictures but I don't have any to take. My boat is all apart. There is one at the lake that I rigged this way. I will ask the owner if I can take care of the pics on his boat, IF he hasn't changed anything!

Dave

[myarb]

Thanks. I can post pictures but I don't have any to take. My boat is all apart. There is one at the lake that I rigged this way. I will ask the owner if I can take care of the pics on his boat, IF he hasn't changed anything!

Dave

Ever get the pics?

[dave]

Sorry, my AADD kicked in, again!!! I forgot. I will attempt to remember to get the pics.

[Tim Bosma]

I use Harken #311 wire block sheaves to replace the stock ones. You will need to cut some shims to place between the sheaves and the side plates of the crane assembly. Coffee can lids work well for this. I used a Harken 308 to replace the bottom block on the tang, after fabricating two SS straps to fasten to the middle hole in the block when bolting it on, one one top of the block and one between the block and the tang. These were used as a becket to mount a smaller high load block to, increasing the purchase. I also drilled a new hole in the crane assembly and installed a clevis pin to use as the dead end tie off for the line, gaining a little more space in the stack. Finished off with 3/16" low stretch line to keep the friction to a minimum in the sheaves. VERY easy raising of the board with this setup. I can do it with one arm on a self tailing winch!

by 'coffee can lids' i hope you mean the plastic ones. we have also used milk bottles to make plastic spacers.

[dave]

Of course that's what I meant................. I'm a "baby boomer", 54 years old.

[Runaway#23]

Dave;

After looking at the Harken 308, question is how did you mount it to the tang? It appears to have the cheekplates riveted together at two points. Did you grind off the rivets and replace with a smooth shaft ss bolt? I get the idea of the ss straps to mfg your own becket, so no problem there.

You asked me to send a pm with my email address, and I did that a week ago, still awaiting your patented diagram!

. . . . . . still waiting patiently . . . . .

[dave]

My apologies to all on the NINE PM's that are in the waiting: I have never looked there since the site changed!!! I'm so used to getting e-mails notifying me of private messages on other forums that I've become jaded and lazy on the screen. I'm VERY sorry and will do my best to answer everyone withing the next couple of days, although I may be able to take care of lots of that here.

Concerning the 308 attachment to the tang: There is a shackle at the head of the block with a cotter pin and the center pin is riveted. I drilled out the rivet and removed the shackle and then use 5/16" SS bolts and nylocks to attach it to the tang. If memory serves me correctly the holes line up with the old stock block holes with only a little reaming, a very nice coincidence indeed!

[LarryE-old]

I am in the process of converting to Hi-Tech 1/4 line.
What have you used for a stopper in front of the winch? Don't think my Lewmar stopper will work as it's for 3/8 line.

[dave]

You may be able to replace just the cam in the stopper to get it to work. Also, NONE of them work worth a hoot unless you keep the cam/handle/axle interfaces lubed well with something like superlube. When these surfaces get dry or dirty the cam locks onto the axle and won't drop the last little bit, causing slippage of the line.