Mast and Boom Paint Color

[Stef]

Getting ready to paint the boom. Does anyone know what color matches best? I was going to take it to a body shop and have them match the paint color before I strip it off but maybe someone already did this.
Boom seems to be the same color as the mast. Seems to be same extrusion too.

[dave]

Stef, I repainted a 7.9 mast and boom 5 years or so back and I used Hatteras White Awlgrip, which was very close to the original shade. As long as you do both completely it matters not....................they both match each other. After oxidizing for years the original white is brighter/whiter than when new, if that matters to you.

[Stef]

Thanks Dave.
I am starting with the boom, see how that goes. I will be rolling it on, spraying is not an option.
Local supplier recommended Prism, comes in 2 grades. Less expensive one is very similar to Imron he said. He can mix it a bit thicker for a rolling application.
Paint on boom is actually in much better condition, probably because of the mainsail cover. He said to bring the boom and he would get a close match. I'm not too particular, as long as it's white and fairly durable.
Checked online and there is a paint to gives a wood appearance, grain and all. Very interesting.
http://www.yachttech.com/html/Mast%20Fittings.htm

[BarryE]

The old original mst and boom on my boat have been repainted with Interlux Matterhorn White, I believe that was the original offshore spars color.

[Stef]

Boom is done. I ended up removing all the paint as Dave suggested, Interlux metal primer 353/354, then base primer 404/414, then 2 coats of Perfection. The name is very fitting, it looks like it just came out of the body shop! Rolled it on and followed with a good brush.

What about the black vinyl tape marks on the boom? I am assuming I will need to replace them to be class legal?

Now for the mast!

[dave]

I'm glad that it worked out well for you! Did you get a free high from the paint?

[Tim Bosma]

we just had our 2 booms done by the body shop guy of one of our crew. They look great as well, but I have no idea what paint he used. Stripes will go on next, but we will be using electricians tape.

[Stef]

What is the purpose of the black tape?

It's on the mast and spreaders too.

[dave]

The ones on the mast and boom are maximum hoist, maximum outhaul marks. Those on the spreaders are trim references for the leech of the genoa/jib.

I just looked through the class rules and could no longer find the specs for the mast and boom, which have the band locations!!!!! I've missed things before, someone correct my or set me straight if it's in there! All I found was this:

2.5. SAIL SPECIFICATIONS: Note: The head, tack, and clew of any sail is defined as the intersection of the projected
sides, except for the heads of the mainsail and jibs. (See Definitions) The intent of the sail weight restrictions is to
insure that the sail is of sufficient strength and durability to be used at the upper wind range (i.e. 18 Knots
apparent wind for the #1 genoa) and last for at least two racing seasons.
The Base for all sail measurements shall be the following:
P = 29.5' (29' 6")
E = 12.25' (12' 3")
I = 30.5" (30' 6")
J = 9.5' (9' 6")

2.5.G.5. P - Mainsail Hoist: shall be the vertical dimension measured along the aft side of the mast, from the horizontal
plane depicted by the top of the boom to the lower edge of the upper band.
2.5.G.6. E - Boom Length: shall be the horizontal dimension taken from the aft side of the mast to the forward point of the
band at the aft end of the boom.
2.5.G.7. Bands: - When any band is not present, the dimension shall be taken to the maximum point to which the sail
may be extended. When banded, mechanical stops (pins, chocks, bolts, etc.) shall be permanently installed to
insure that the sail cannot be stretched outside the limits defined by the bands. Most S2 7.9's have a 1/4 x 20
tapped hole at the boom band. To meet the 12.25' "E" dimension, a screw and 3/4" OD washer is normally needed
as a stopper.

I know, I know.................. the mainsail luff "P" is 29.5' (29' 6"). I'm fairly positive that I remember seeing the specs for the mast and boom in there before with the locations for the bands. Am I nuts???

[Stef]

I may just leave the bands off.

Anyone have a source for the T ball back plates that are riveted to the mast? Rigging only hasn't said yes and felt he couldn't match the original rivet hole locations. Maybe just rotate 180 degrees? This looks like a tricky job since there is no access to the inside of the tube near any of these.

[dave]

What happened to the old ones?

I get them from Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co. You don't install them by feeding them in through the top or bottom. They go in through the T ball hole. A wire hook made from a coat hanger and some long needle nose pliers make short work of it. Make sure that they are installed with 1/4" pop rivets. either SS or monel.

[Tim Bosma]

Stef,
on the #457 boom, there are 3 punch dots on the side of the boom where the forward edge of the band goes.
on the #477 boom, no such luck, but i can see the scar of the old band under the new paint.
if it needs to be measured, then the boom has to be put on the mast and measured, as noted by Dave, using the P and E dimensions.
Thanks,

[Stef]

Tim, I found the three center punched holes. I would like to use a decent vinyl instead of electrical tape. The old was 7/8" wide, difficult to find. I have a sign maker locally, I may ask him.