Does anyone know how to replicate the skid patern on top deck?
Thanks, Greg
Anti-skid
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
Re: Anti-skid
That my friend is one big job that leads to less than new looking or desirable results in my experience. The stipple pattern in the cockpit area is easy, just find the right roller to recreate the stippling, but then you still have to color match unless you want to change shades/colors. The diamond pattern? I wouldn't touch that with a 20 foot pole, and I'm good at what I do!!! Can it be done? for sure, but how much do you want to pay for something that won't add a few hundred dollars of value to your boat?
Re: Anti-skid
Originally they used the diamond light diffusing clear panel from florescent light fixtures. I have one right above my head. Good luck! Jeff
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Re: Anti-skid
Are you referring to the side decks or cabin top? I used Kiwi-Grip paint on my 7.9. For the cabin top, coaming and cockpit the kiwi-grip "loopy goopy" roller works great, just block sand it down to the desired aggressiveness after it dries, looks very factory and not that "sand in paint" look. On the diamond pattern side deck areas I block sanded the sharp tips down slightly then applied kiwi-grip with a standard fine foam roller.
Several ways to replicate any pattern, just google how it's done, basically you make a mold from the good section and use that to create the pattern with gel-coat, not easy.
Here are some pics. I have not finished the cockpit floor and seats yet in the photos. But you'll get the idea how nice Kiwi-Grip looks. I try and get a macro closeup shot this weekend so you can see what the pattern looks like.
Several ways to replicate any pattern, just google how it's done, basically you make a mold from the good section and use that to create the pattern with gel-coat, not easy.
Here are some pics. I have not finished the cockpit floor and seats yet in the photos. But you'll get the idea how nice Kiwi-Grip looks. I try and get a macro closeup shot this weekend so you can see what the pattern looks like.
Re: Anti-skid
Nice job.
Anyone who has never tried making antiskid molds, making parts from those and then not only getting then installing air and gap free but matching on the edges............................. hasn't lived. The parts are thin by necessity and fiberglass parts ALWAYS warp toward the gelcoat side because that shrinks the most when cured. Try taking something that curled like a potato chip and getting it to lay flat. Then there are those who think that you can simply apply new gelcoat and press the mold into the top of it and peel off when cured: Air bubble central!!!!
This is GREAT stuff, is water based, easy to apply, very durable and easy to repair if damaged. The texture is very aggressive but as the name suggests, not hard and abrasive: http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14342
Anyone who has never tried making antiskid molds, making parts from those and then not only getting then installing air and gap free but matching on the edges............................. hasn't lived. The parts are thin by necessity and fiberglass parts ALWAYS warp toward the gelcoat side because that shrinks the most when cured. Try taking something that curled like a potato chip and getting it to lay flat. Then there are those who think that you can simply apply new gelcoat and press the mold into the top of it and peel off when cured: Air bubble central!!!!
This is GREAT stuff, is water based, easy to apply, very durable and easy to repair if damaged. The texture is very aggressive but as the name suggests, not hard and abrasive: http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14342