Replacment Block on tang at top of dagger board

[wkwtucson]

I have my dagger board out and I am in the process of fixing dinks, refairing and repainting.
My questions follow:
1-I will be have to replace the block on top of the board for lifting since it is trashed (rusted and broke) and I will be replacing it.
It is a single pulley with a becket that bolts thru the eye of the pulley (Fico Australia FG-581) and I have some photos of the old one.
I was thinking of putting another block back in with a double pulley arrangement and then the board would come up easier.
If I get a block without a becket then I would have to tie off the line somewhere in the double stainless steel pulley deck fixture thingey.
Getting a double block with a becket would require having another pulley at the deck level (or their abouts).
Thoughts? Anyone been through this?
2-Also, I put my boat in salt water for a week or two at a time.... Seems like most would use the Interlux-2000E with the Interlux VC offshore for bottom paint. Is this also the recommended paint(s) for the dagger board and the rudder???
Kevin in Tucson
Aim to Please Two, Hull#29 (1982)
p.s. I just used paypal to pay the association dues... all worked good.

[J.D. Kloss]

I've been very happy with VC Offshore in salt water.

When I redid my centerboard tackle, I had a 3/8" hole drilled to the port side of the deck plate (had a machine shop do it; the SS is tough) and dead end the line through it, then put high load cheek blocks on both sides of the tang. Get 5:1 instead of 4:1 and a straight pull up the tang. Works well.

Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.2 #8

[wkwtucson]

Jim, thanks for the help.

Regarding bottom paint for saltwater psuedo-trailer racers, I not sure of all the details yet regarding the Interlux VC Offshore as a bottom paint for my application. Someone I was talking to suggested that a boat not left in saltwater year-round will make the anti-fouling properties disappear pretty quickly when on the trailer. Since I have the boat in the water three to five times a year for a couple of weeks at a time, I was curious if the VC Offshore was a good expenditure of money for me.
If, in learning all the relevent details, if turns out that I do not use the VC Offshore, do you have any thoughts regarding other choices for painting board (or bottom or rudder for that matter). Someone I know also told me a local racer just left the Interlux InterProtect2000E barrier coat exposed, while another guy put something call Seahawk Silverbullet over the Interlux 2000E.
I am set-up to do repairs using the line West Systems products and will be using that on the bare board. In that respect, does anyone put the barrier coat additive #422 into the West System epoxy and leave that exposed?
(... and I have also been hoisting the board when at anchor or at the dock to keep the board clean of bottom growth.)

Regarding the block on the top of the board tang.... do you remember the type of high load cheek blocks that you used, ..make and model. I did not see a good candidate in the Harken catalog. Also, the 3/8" hole thru the deck plate was drilled where? maybe halfway between the two sheeve pulleys in the deck plate? Of course I will need an addition 12-feet or so to add to the line for the keel hoist rope. What do you use there?

Kevin, Aim to Please Two, Hull#29

[J.D. Kloss]

As I recall, I used Lewmar 40mm synchro control blocks -- about $26 at Defender. For line I went down to 5/16" to run more freely and anything with a load rating equal or superior to 7/16" Sta-set (which was factory original, I believe) will work. The hole in the deck plate is in line with with deck plate pulleys and to the left (port) side. I have a photo somewhere.

I don't know what to say about bottom paint. VC Offshore is very hard and so it works even after chemical action has decreased. VC 17 is used by most fresh water racers, and it should hold up to a few days/weeks in salt water. Just remember that once you use a vinyl based paint you need to stick with vinyl paints unless you sand down and reapply barrier coat.

Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8

[wkwtucson]

Jim,
If you have a photo of two of the board pennant (tang) and deck plate arrangement, I would be happy to check it out before ordering the stuff. Thanks for the tip on Defender... do you like them better than West Marine?

The 5/16" rope would have to be something like New England Ropes T-900 Technora/Dyneema Double Braid with a breaking strength of 7,300-lbs?? I was going to take the old 7.9 stock hoist line length of 27-ft and add another 8-ft. Sound about right?

...Still looking into the barrier coat/bottom paint issues for the trailer racer in saltwater.

Kevin

[J.D. Kloss]

send me a pm with your email address, and I'll send you a couple of photos.

Jim Kloss

[wkwtucson]

Jim,
sent you a p.m. with my email address.

... now, so I measured my dagger board based on the plan dimensions given in the class rules document in Appendix B and it seems my board is three inches shorter. Does this create a class issue or a performance issue if true?

The Appendix B does not clearly define the top termination for the dimension labeled as 48 - 1/2"....
but if you add up the 10" + 4-15/16" and then tack on the 48-1/2" number you get 63-7/16" overall length.
Mine is 60-3/8" long.
Is this worth building up with some epoxy/fiberglass?

Also, I spent about 8-hours putting the dimensions from Appendix-B into a 1:1 scaled drawing of the board section. I took that and laid out the pattern on a piece of sheet metal to form and cut out the mirrored forms to build a template. The two pieces are hinged together around a thicker piece of sheet metal formed around just the leading edge with a radius of 0.24". This indicates that my board is just a bit thicker around the section then it should be. If anyone is interested in any of this going forward, please let me know.

As for the board paint, I am leaning toword just putting the Interlux2000E on the faired board over the West System (105/206 with 406). I learned that at 98-deg F you need only 15 minutes between coats to keep the build-up going. Had to use only 2-pumps at a time from the quart cans to avoid excessive heat.
Kevin

[kabirroy]

Hello,

I am also dagger hozard with the public and replacement block on tang at top of dagger board.
Please care the driveway on the road and repair and good maintenance.
thanks,

[awolczyk]

We just finished working with Garhauer to put together a kit to replace the block and sheaves at the top with new ball bearing sheaves.
If you contact Garhauer and ask for the "S2 keel lifting kit" they should have them ready to ship, the cost is $120 plus freight.

The kit includes a new "fiddle" block that attaches to the keel tang and two seperate sheaves that fit in the bridge over the keel box.
To complete the kit add their standard deck turning block, for $36.

I prototyed and it works like a charm.

[Pete]

I have already installed the Garhauer fiddle block on my centerboard tang and would like to buy the sheaves for the deck bridge from a local retailer. Do you know the Garhauer part numbers for those sheaves. These folks make high quality, durable products at reasonable prices.
Thanks !!

[awolczyk]

Garhauer made the whole assembly to our specs and the sheaves were a special run for our specific dimensions.

[Pete]

Thanks....I'll have to contact them.

[normbue]

Regarding the bottom paint. You might look at a new eco friendly one named ECO CLAD. A two part epoxy that stays viable in or out of the water. Also it claims to give a knot or two better speed. I'm using it now and it seems to work pretty well in warm fresh water, but you have to move the boat to keep the scum from accumulating.

[Southern Gales]

Price update: The Garhauer "S2 Keel Lifting Kit" is now $300 instead of $120. If interested talk to Guido at (909) 985-7513 and he will make to order. I would like to purchase but more than 2X the original price is out of my range. I'll continue to look for alternatives.

[Southern Gales]

The Garhauer "Fiddle Block" that mounts to the keel is part # 30-DO-DB and costs $50.