The pivot hole is on the rudder is getting elongated, and I'm wondering if this is bad enough to require fixing. See the attached pics.
I'd image the answer is probably a firm yes, so if anyone has suggestions on how to fix this, please let me know.
Thanks,
Jim
#536
Rudder pivot hole elongated
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
-
sailor536
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Sat May 24, 2003 10:38 pm
- Location: 702 Sunningdale Dr., Grosse Pointe Woods, MI 48236
- Contact:
Rudder pivot hole elongated
- Attachments
-
- Pic2.gif (95.14 KiB) Viewed 3918 times
-
- Pic1.gif (140.51 KiB) Viewed 3918 times
Re: Rudder pivot hole elongated
I have had this, but no where near as bad. On mine the bushing was just loose & sloppy in the hole. I fixed by mixing some West system with microfibres and rebedded the bushing in the head. I also added stainless steel bars through the head on both sides of the hole, both going way down into the rudder blade. Haven't had any problems and it's been many years.
Stef
Odyssey #146
Odyssey #146
Re: Rudder pivot hole elongated
I just did this fix on both the pivot and the lock down pin. There are a couple of posts about it on the board
Re: rudder slop
Postby Tom Elsen » Thu Mar 29, 2012 3:13 pm
and
Re: Rudder (blade) pivot hole
Postby Tom Elsen » Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:22 pm
The brass part is in the plumbing section. The inner diameter is 5/8" and outer is 13/16". I used a rasp bit on a drill to clean out the inside, there was some soft core, while leaving the outer skin alone. I filled the hole entirely then redrilled it with the cheek plates in place to identify the proper centre for the new hole. It was easy to see that the cheek plates were in the usual position by the wear lines on the rudder head paint. As mentioned in the above posts, drilling exactly perpendicular is critical to getting the new bushing to line up with the cheek plates. I used a dowelling jig with a 1/4" bit for a pilot hole and then the 13/16" bit followed the proper line easily. Photo shows end result.
Re: rudder slop
Postby Tom Elsen » Thu Mar 29, 2012 3:13 pm
and
Re: Rudder (blade) pivot hole
Postby Tom Elsen » Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:22 pm
The brass part is in the plumbing section. The inner diameter is 5/8" and outer is 13/16". I used a rasp bit on a drill to clean out the inside, there was some soft core, while leaving the outer skin alone. I filled the hole entirely then redrilled it with the cheek plates in place to identify the proper centre for the new hole. It was easy to see that the cheek plates were in the usual position by the wear lines on the rudder head paint. As mentioned in the above posts, drilling exactly perpendicular is critical to getting the new bushing to line up with the cheek plates. I used a dowelling jig with a 1/4" bit for a pilot hole and then the 13/16" bit followed the proper line easily. Photo shows end result.
- Attachments
-
- 20150415_203537.jpg (804.24 KiB) Viewed 3880 times
-
sailor536
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Sat May 24, 2003 10:38 pm
- Location: 702 Sunningdale Dr., Grosse Pointe Woods, MI 48236
- Contact:
Re: Rudder pivot hole elongated
Thanks for the information on repairing the pivot hole on the rudder. I filled the the pivot hole with West System G-Flex epoxy and will wait 2 to 3 days for the expoxy to fully cure inside. Since the pivot hole on my rudder was so wide, I want to make sure I re-drill at exactly the right spot.
I've read in other posts that the the right place is 4-1/2" down from the top, 5-1/2" back from the leading edge. If anyone has a different measurement, please let me know. I need to get this right the first time, as the launch date is only a week away!
Thanks,
Jim
I've read in other posts that the the right place is 4-1/2" down from the top, 5-1/2" back from the leading edge. If anyone has a different measurement, please let me know. I need to get this right the first time, as the launch date is only a week away!
Thanks,
Jim