Backstay Flicker

[John L]

I attempted to add a flicker (using a glass batten) last season, but it was ineffective due to the weight of the wire backstay and rigging.

I'm told that I should switch over to a Spectra backstay and lighter blocks.

Does anyone have experience with making this change over?

If so, would you be able to advise on a recommended parts list?

Thanks,
John Lipaj
S2 7.9 True North
EYC, Cleveland

[AJ Oliver]

Hey John -

Most of us use something like this . .

(to simplify, I did not run mine up to the traveler, and used one triple block at the bottom, and one single block above that, as is pictured.

http://www.harken.com/uploadedImages/Te ... gif?n=5993

Stop out at the Sandusky Sailing Club if you are in the area - we have three 7.9's here. How many are there at EYC?

[MnM20]

I copied this and will be putting it on the boat this weekend:

http://hottamaleracing.com/misc_files/backstay.xls

I attempted to add a flicker (using a glass batten) last season, but it was ineffective due to the weight of the wire backstay and rigging.

I'm told that I should switch over to a Spectra backstay and lighter blocks.

Does anyone have experience with making this change over?

If so, would you be able to advise on a recommended parts list?

Thanks,
John Lipaj
S2 7.9 True North
EYC, Cleveland

[AJ Oliver]

More on this . .

I used the lightest practical blocks and line (1/8 still gives you 1800 pounds of breaking strength)

And I used a batten for the kicker - a bendy but pretty strong one; and to prevent splitting, I glassed around
the holes that I had to drill in it.

I used a lighter system than most 7.9's - one triple and one single block for a 6:1 advantage (I think),
most 7.9's go to 12:1. I thought that would be too strong. My system seems to work.

And has held up well for five years now . .

[Tim Bosma]

Someone linked to file on our site. Thanks! To get a bit more purchase, we have added a second cascade just above the tensioning tackle, giving us 16:1. I haven't updated the drawing in the file yet, but you can sort it out.

[MnM20]

I should add that I modified this slightly as well. Where the Hot Tamale one indicates a 4:1 to a cascade to give 8:1, I did a 6:1 to a cascade to make 12:1. 12:1 feels like a good sweet spot and with a single cascade there's plenty of scope in the line to accommodate for stretch and creep on the HMWPE. I also use a Tylaska ferrule instead of a block for the cascade to keep weight down. I'll snap a photo and post it here when i get a chance.

The lengths were a perfect guide.

[Pete]

I too converted to Dyneema for my back stay. Four to one purchase to a cascade for 8:1 total purchase which seems quite adequate. Searched Amazon for "dyneema" and found lots of it. It's used for winch lines on off road vehicles. Was dirt cheap compared to the 'marine' variety....go figure. Searched You Tube for instructional videos for the splicing. Was quite easy and worked very well. Good luck.

[MnM20]

Finally got a pic of my setup. Harken 6:1 cascaded via Tylaska ferrule and led forward to cams just aft of the traveler adjustments. Makes for a total of 12:1. My lengths of the HDMWPE were exactly what was suggested from the Hot Tamale website.