Bulkhead/Chainplate Ploblems.

Bob Acker · Post by **Bob Acker** » Wed Aug 27, 2003 1:53 am

Having just returned from the CCR, and having fielded quite a few questions about our dismasting in Chicago. I'd like to elaborate on Mark's response to the last post. Mark and I purchased the boat June(02') after looking far and wide.The boat went through the survey with flying colors, very dry, no sign of water. At the NOODS in Chicago this year, at the top mark flying main, genoa and chute heading for the off-set our rig fell to port into the drink. Upon inspection the starboard chainplate had ripped out of the bulkhead. No wood surrounding the chainplate came with it. Speaking with Bill Abbott of Abbott Boats Inc. in Sarnia, Ont. he knew what happened before setting foot on the boat. He had seen production of 7.9's in Holland, Mi. S2 finished the hulls and interior then set the deck on top. Unfortunately they did not seal the top of bulkheads from water. He also questioned why the starboard chainplate wasn't longer. He noted that water comes in through the deck plate, migrates along the top of the bulkhead and down between the sandwiched plates. Even after our dismasting, the surrounding area did not show any evidence of imminent doom. The ONLY way to know is to pull the chainplate and have a look. In repairing the boat, the Abbotts extended the chainplate almost to the sole, they also re-enforced the bulkhead itself. They said they can put together a repair "kit" for anyone that is interested. Sorry for being long-winded but if it helps anyone from the hell that we went and are still going through (insurance) its worth it. Bob Acker / Mark Gutteridge. Hunting Party #448. Point Edward Ontario.

Jeff Bonvallet · Post by **Jeff Bonvallet** » Wed Aug 27, 2003 2:54 pm

On the way back from Menominee, in heavy seas and 30 kts of wind, I noticed that my starboard chain plate was up about 1/2". We took down the sails and headed back to Menominee. After trailering the boat back to Green Bay, an inspection revealed that the 6 holes had elongated about 2.5 times the diameter of the bolt. I epoxied them and redrilled them and then added an extra board above the backing plate to brace between the cabin top and the backing plate. It's just a temporary fix to get me through 1 more race and then this fall I'll extend the chain plate and make a larger backing plate that goes all the way to the cabon top.

I STRONGLY RECOMMED THAT ALL S2 7.9 OWNERS TAKE THE 10 MINUTES TO REMOVE THE BACKING PLATE AND TAKE A LOOK AT THE CONDITION OF THE PLYWOOD!!!

Tom Line · Post by **Tom Line** » Thu Oct 02, 2003 12:39 pm

Bob - saw your new mast this last weekend during the NSSC race. Looking good! Hope it performs as well as it looks on your boat.

Do you have an estimate on the cost of the repair kit? On last inspection, my buldhead has rotted about 8 inches wide and 4 inches down. I'd be interested in the larger chainplate more than anything else. I can do the teak work myself.

Tom Line

Mark Gutteridge · Post by **Mark Gutteridge** » Thu Oct 02, 2003 3:34 pm

Tom;
Come have a look @ Hunting Party on Sunday.

Abbott's in Sarnia might be able to cut the stuff if you want them to.They would have the measurements because they made one for us and Spike.We could deliver it to you @ Northstar.I think the cost of the stainless strapping and the nuts and bolts would be less than $100.00.Please don't quote me though.
Chimo;
Mark.
Ps. I guarantee you it is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new mast and sails.

jbooher · Post by **jbooher** » Thu Oct 09, 2003 1:09 pm

When I purchased my S2 7.9 back in 1997 one of the first things that I had to repair was the bulkhead. The plywood had rotted out around the chain plate. The bulkhead is held in place by fiberglass. You need to take off the chain plate, light fixtures, bar by the head, and the table brackets. Pull back the carpet and use a dremmel tool to cut the fiberglass. You may have to grind the fiberglass some to get the bulkhead out. Use the old bulkhead as a template and cut a new one. S2 used Â½ inch teak plywood for the bulkhead. Once you have reinstalled the bulkhead then re-fiberglass. Re-glue the carpet and attach every thing you took off the old bulkhead. Then remember to re-calk the chain plates each year.

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Tue Dec 23, 2003 8:15 pm

What is a good caulking for the chainplates? I have just purchased a 7.9, there is no water intrusion and I intend to keep it that way. Removing the plates once a year in the spring before stepping seems like a smart idea.
Stef
"Odyssey" hull #146

Mark Gutteridge · Post by **Mark Gutteridge** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 11:48 am

Stef;
We use and El Presidante Tom uses 3M 5200.
Chimo;
Guts.

Larryet · Post by **Larryet** » Sat Dec 27, 2003 6:39 pm

We had a 7.9 in our fleet lose the rig when the port chainplate snapped. It broke right at deck level. After that I check both sides every year.
Anyone heard of the port one failing?
Larry
Purrfect
#262

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 10:14 pm

Where can I buy 3M 5200? I have checked with several home centers, no stock.

Larryet · Post by **Larryet** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:25 am

I bought 5200 this week at Home Depot. West Marine has plenty, more expensive.
Purr-fect
262

Stef · Post by **Stef** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 12:34 pm

Whats a good way to clean up the old 3M 5200?

chriscraig99 · Post by **chriscraig99** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:09 pm

After about 5 calls I finally got the new chainplate from the Abott's. Dealing with them was kind of a pain because they would never call me back. I got the kit. It is a longer chainplate and a piece of wood to reinforce the bulkhead. IT was $185 CAN plus $25 shipping, no hardware came with it. Kind of expensive, but I guess if it prevents the mast from falling down it's OK.

Post by **Tom Elsen** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 6:14 pm

Hey Chris

Glad that you got through. I finally gave up.

Could you describe the 'kit' you got more completely, please. And did they also offer a less complicated option, essentially a 'backing plate' for the existing chainplate? Thanks.

Jeff Bonvallet · Post by **Jeff Bonvallet** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:18 pm

I just finished repairing my chainplate (see post above). I made a new backing plate out of 1/4" X 15" X 10" AL. I angled it at the top to match the deck and put it in place using the existing 6 bolts. I then added five more attachment points, three below at the bottom of the 15" plate with a horizontal alignment and two to the far right of the chain plate, about 1.5" inboard of the carpeting. I backed these all up in the V berth with 2 more plates. The added surface area plus 5 more bolt holes (not in line with any others) and the entire plate resting against the deck should do the trick. My bulkhead was in good shape with no water staining or rot at all. Its just a bad job of engineering, so check yours out. The boat doesn't have to be old or have a history of leaks to have a problem.
Jeff

Tom Line · Post by **Tom Line** » Wed Apr 14, 2004 4:05 pm

The reason these shrouds are so problematic (water leaking) is due to their constant flex with regards to the deck. No silicon or other sealant can stand up to the constant flexing - most of these goops will separate with a single flex between the deck/shroud plate joint.

An easy solution to this is to use a mast-type boot (seen on masts that are keel stepped).

Picture a 1/16 thick rectangular piece of rubber with a slot cut in the middle. The "slot" goes over the shroud tang, and is fastened around the tang with a couple plastic zip-ties. Sealant can be applied directly between the rubber seal and the shroud tang.

Then the flat portion is sandwiched between the deck and the screwed down plate, with sealant added between the rubber gasket and the deck. In this way, the rubber "boot" is where all the flexing is done.

I'd also suggest you use 4200 not 5200. 5200 is a permanent goop. 4200 is almost as durable, but it can be removed.[/img]

S2 7.9 Meter Class Association

Bulkhead/Chainplate Ploblems.

Bulkhead/Chainplate Ploblems.

Port chain plate

Home Depot

Bulkhead