Rudder Hold-up Device

[Tim Bosma]

We are going to fab up a stainless steel rod rudder hold-up for 457 like this one:
http://hottamaleracing.com/misc_files/R ... ort_v2.doc
If you are interested in getting one we can make a few of them. Price is to be determined.
Thanks,

[fleck]

Tim,

Let us know how much.

[Bob Kirsten]

Hey Tim,

I would definitely be in to buy one from you. You can email me at robert_kirsten@hotmail.com or call me 248-890-7472.

Thanks for taking the effort to measure it and make up new ones.

Bob Kirsten

[Tim Bosma]

I had a short run of the SS Rudder Hold-ups made. They are $32 including shipping and are available at http://www.hottamaleracing.com/business.php
Thanks,

[Tim Bosma]

I've got 2 left! http://hottamaleracing.com/business.php
Thanks,

[Tim Bosma]

I've got only 1 left, now! http://hottamaleracing.com/business.php
Thanks,

[Bob Kirsten]

Tim,

Thanks for the nice job on the rudder holder-upper (my daughter's term). It is excellent, well done, and well worth the money.

Bob Kirsten
DD Mau

[Tim Bosma]

Thanks Bob, Your daughter has a quick grasp of technical terms. She could become a famous engineer someday!

[Marc]

Okay, I'm embarrassed (but what's new).

When I bought my boat last year, one of these came with it and it looked like a rudder lifter. If it's a hold-up device, how does it connect?

Marc

Zafu (194...I think)

[Bob Kirsten]

Mark,

You're right, that until you try it, it's not really intuitive. Your rudder should have a small hole on the trailing edge, about 10 inches down from the top. You would first pull the stainless pin out of the rudder cheeks which lock the rudder down. This allows the rudder to swing up. Now to orient the rudder hold-up, the tee handle is the top. Your hold-up will have a 90 degree turn on the lower portion which hooks into that small hole on the back of the rudder. You would then use the tee handle to pull the rudder up, and it then hooks over the bolt at the top back of the rudder cheeks (which attaches your tiller). You would not use this for trailering, it is temporary. But, you need it to also push the rudder back down, and re-insert the locking pin to lock the rudder down. Let me know if any of this makes sense to you.

Bob Kirsten
DD Mau

[Tim Bosma]

I only recommend leaving the hold-up in place during final launch and initial retrieval. So we put it in just before we splash her and then just before we pull her out again.

[Bob Kirsten]

Tim,

Absolutely agree, and I learned it the hard way. A somewhat related question for you - do you use a dowel to lock the rudder down or the stock stainless pin? I have stayed with the stainless pin, but have seen it bent at times.

Bob Kirsten

[dave]

The pins bends and the rudder head wears at the pin contact. Both of these let the rudder swing to far aft which creates LOTS of helm load and rudder drag and is SLOW! If you think that only 1/8" - 1/4" aft doesn't make any difference, try it for yourself!

Also, there's nothing saying that the pin was drilled in the perfect spot to get the rudder angle right to begin with. The trailing edge of the blade should be EXACTLY vertical, that is to say parallel to the transom and the aft edge of the keel.

[Tim Bosma]

we had used a stainless steel pin on 477, but in repeated touchings of the rudder on the bottom, we had bent the pin and damaged the rudder head, after repairs, we use a #2 pencil.
(I think the Eberhard Faber natural look pencils are better looking than a bright yellow one. once we grabbed a handfull of promo pencils from a booth at the Boat Show!)

[Bob Kirsten]

Tim,

I think I'll try the handsome natural dowel to avoid color clash.

Thanks,

Bob Kirsten
DD Mau