Carpet Replacement
Moderators: Tim Bosma, Tom Elsen
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Roger Kuebel
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 10:10 pm
Carpet Replacement
I am considering purchasing and "rescuing" an older boat in which the carpet is badly mildewed and should be replaced. Does anyone have any thoughts on doing this? i.e., is it feasible; is there anyone who does this, and if so, how much does it cost; how much expertise does it require; etc.
carpet
My headliner is fine but the carpet on the hull is slightly different in appearance and has apparently shrunk from age or heat, separating from the hull. Although it still looks OK, it is too small to cover the hull when reglued. Suggestions and material sources would also be appreciated.
Spencer Rogers
#288
Spencer Rogers
#288
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Tom Elsen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 419
- Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 5:42 pm
- Location: Minneapolis, MN & Chicago, IL
Replacing carpet / headliner
I've done it once. It's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. The hardest part is finding acceptable material. Just keep looking.
Here are a couple of tips for the mounting though:
- It's much easier to do with two people
- Don't skimp on the quality of the fabric
- It needs to be flexible, but not at all skimpy
- Remove the old liner by soaking it a bit with water
- Let it dry and use it as a pattern to cut the new stuff
- Cut it an inch or two bigger than the pattern
- Use carpet glue to mount the new stuff
- You will need a good fan for ventilation
- Work from the top (deck joint) down
- Lap-seam the top (to hide the blunt end of the fabric)
- Set ~ 5 feet of the top seam and a bit less of the sheer-side at one time
- Getting the right amount of carpet cement is critical
- Once you start skimming on the carpet cement, work quickly
- It's a lot like applying a decal or a section of wallpaper
- BUT only stick 3-4 feet of the liner on the sheerside at a time (then skim on more carpet cement) You can't work a perfectly vertical section as in wallpaper. It will be more like a 45 degree angle section with the top forward of the bottom.
- Use a plastic wallpaper smoother to take out any bubbles.
Here are a couple of tips for the mounting though:
- It's much easier to do with two people
- Don't skimp on the quality of the fabric
- It needs to be flexible, but not at all skimpy
- Remove the old liner by soaking it a bit with water
- Let it dry and use it as a pattern to cut the new stuff
- Cut it an inch or two bigger than the pattern
- Use carpet glue to mount the new stuff
- You will need a good fan for ventilation
- Work from the top (deck joint) down
- Lap-seam the top (to hide the blunt end of the fabric)
- Set ~ 5 feet of the top seam and a bit less of the sheer-side at one time
- Getting the right amount of carpet cement is critical
- Once you start skimming on the carpet cement, work quickly
- It's a lot like applying a decal or a section of wallpaper
- BUT only stick 3-4 feet of the liner on the sheerside at a time (then skim on more carpet cement) You can't work a perfectly vertical section as in wallpaper. It will be more like a 45 degree angle section with the top forward of the bottom.
- Use a plastic wallpaper smoother to take out any bubbles.
Best wishes,
Tom
Tom
Much of the type of carpeting used overhead and as hull liner on our S2 6.7/6.9/22s was made by Marine Specialties Group (A G&T Industries Company), 3415A Eastern Ave., S.E. Grand Rapids, MI 49508; 1-800-967-7753 or (616) 452-3512. Very probably it was also used on your S2 7.9s -- worth a look-see.
Ask for samples of their "Hull Liner" in their "Hull Geometric" pattern.
Ask for samples of their "Hull Liner" in their "Hull Geometric" pattern.
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Tom Elsen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 419
- Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 5:42 pm
- Location: Minneapolis, MN & Chicago, IL
Lap seam
Hi Smitty
Apply the material from the top (deck joint) down.
Don't butt-end the material at the top, as you would a piece of wall paper.
Instead fold about 1/2" of material under, so that the cut end of the fabric doesn't show. That fabric will be an inverted 'U' at the top, with the cut end facing downward, on the inside (glued to the sheerside).
Does that help?
Apply the material from the top (deck joint) down.
Don't butt-end the material at the top, as you would a piece of wall paper.
Instead fold about 1/2" of material under, so that the cut end of the fabric doesn't show. That fabric will be an inverted 'U' at the top, with the cut end facing downward, on the inside (glued to the sheerside).
Does that help?
Best wishes,
Tom
Tom