Transducer Mounting

[Stef]

I need to install a simple depth sounder with transducer. I purchased one recently where the transducer can be either be transom mounted or glued in-hull. I would prefer to mount in-hull but instructions say if the area has a wood core the transducer may not work properly. Tim Bosma suggested I remove the wood in a small area not going through outer skin and filling with epoxy. This sounds OK but if anyone has had any experience with this situation please reply.

[don chism]

The first 18 " by 10 " wide strip in front of keel is solid glass (no core). That is where most transducers are placed. This can be accessed and drilled under the forward berth. Don #121, " Rowdy"

[Stef]

Thats good news! I am having doubts with the unit I have purchased. Watt output is 250 and there are some units with 600 watts. Does anyone know of a proven transducer?

[268]

When I bought hull #268 it had a thru hull transducer that allowed water to soak into the core. To solve the problem I removed the transducer, filled the hole with epoxy, and glued a piece of two inch pvc pipe inside the hull. The hole was located about three feet forward of the keel housing, and six inches right of the center line of the hull. The end of the pipe was cut at an angle so it would be vertical to the waterline. To get the proper lenght of pipe, add about two inches to the height of your transducer. I used the thru hull transducer and shaved the mushroom collar off of it. To finish the project, place the transducer in the pipe and and a small amount of mineral oil into the pipe so as the transducer head is covered in oil at all times. Drill a hole thru the pipe above the transducer to hold it in place.
I have been using this set-up for four years and fine the transducer readings to be very acturate, and have the ability to remove the transducer should it need service or replacement.

Art #268

[Jeff B]

I have my transducer mounted about 12" to 15" in front of the keel box and on the center line. It is mounted with silicone and nothing else. This allows for easy removel if needed. I have had it set up this way for 5 years and have never had a problem. To test your transducer and find the best spot for mounting, just place it in a plastic bag of water and place the bag and transducer on the inside of the hull. You can then move it around and actually see where you get the best and most consistant readings, this will also let you know if you have enough power to shoot through the hull. After you find the best spot, invert your transducer and make a cone of silicone on the entire bottom about 1" tall in the center, make sure you do not trap any air bubbles in the silicone. Then simply press your transducer slowly onto your clean and dry hull. Make sure you remove all air from between the transducer and the hull. When done you should have about a 1/4" layer of silicone between the transducer and the hull. Wipe away the excess silicone and leave a bead around the sides. I have done this on about 4 other boats at our club, all with great sucess. On one boat we removed a problem transducer and filled the hole with epoxy and then shot through the patch. It solved the leaking problem with no loss of performance. I got this method from the folks at Layline, they do it all the time and have had no problems.

Jeff
DASH #539

[Stef]

I have uncovered the boat and looked in the bilge area in front of the keel box. Going forward there is about 12" of space then a rectangular rise going side to side that is about 10" wide, I am tol this is lead. I am assuming that I should mount the in-hull transducer between the keel box and the 10" rise?

[Jeff Bonvallet]

Hi Stef,

I uncovered the boat this weekend and checked out the position of my transducer. It's about 4" in front of the keel box, directly on the center line.

Jeff