Keel Lift Line Replacement

[stattine]

I replaced the keel line last year with 3/8'' Yale Yacht Braid. The line is showing signs of wear after one season. I am looking for some advice on brand/style/type of line others have used.

[Tom Line]

If you're seeing wear that quickly, you've got a problem somewhere. Check all the shivs to make sure nothing is bent, non of the bushings have frozen and still rotate freely, and also and most importantly - downsize that rope a bit. The smaller the rope, the more freely it will run, and with the new composites out there you can go a 1/16" smaller without issue.

Is your cleat chewing it up? Where is the wear happening? Do you keep the board hung by the rope when trailering, or set it down on the bunk?

[Stef]

I had the same problem. This year before I put Odyssey in the water a decided to change the keel lifting line. I removed the trunk covers and lifted it up as far is it would go, I was never able to pin it at the top because the bar never never came up far enough. Reason, all around the top edge of the keel is 3/8" x 1" nylon strip, this helps keep the keel centered in the trunk when it's pulled up out of the seat. The strip in the front was missing and the keel tilted forward, in turn when cranked up, the bar missed the slot for pinning and was shifted over far enough to jam into the sheaves, damaging them, then damaging the line.
Your problem may either be the same or as simple as that bar may be bent and damaging your sheaves. I have repaired all and it's working better than ever.

[Rudeman]

I completely agree with Tom, using a smaller diameter keel lift line signifianctly helps reduce friction. Also, using a hard wearing line like Marlow also helps to keep things running smoothly.

If you are getting lots of keel line wear look at the exit angle between your roppe clutch and your winch. Recently I looked at two S2 7.9's that had an excessive angle causing pre-mature wear.

Basically because of the loads, you need your keel line to pass straight through your rope clutch with no deflection angle whatsoever imposed on the line from the clutch. If there is an off-set angle, you will be placing wear on the line.

[Tim Bosma]

We replaced both upper sheeves and went with 3/8" Sta-Set this spring. Both upper sheeves were showing quite a bit of wear and the 7/16" line was too large to ride in the sheeve properly. We bought 2 Sheaffer sheeves, ground the axle shoulders down by 2 mm to make them slide into place. The board goes up and down a lot smoother now.

[stattine]

Thanks for the help. I will try downsizing the line, check the alignment of keel and blocks.

[Fred Chadsey]

I need to replace the board hoisting line, does anyone know the lenght required ? Does revising the purchase from 3:1 to 4:1 make a big benefical difference ? If so want lenght is required for 4:1 ? I've change my winch to a two speed # 24 lewmar which has helped. At 75 yrs. old anything to help, please advise.

[Tim Bosma]

Fred,
The original specs call for 27 ft of line for the keel lift. This is probably on a 3:1 tackle. Since the keel travels about 4-5 ft, I would add a fathom or so for a 4:1 and go with 35 ft of line. We also use a double handle 10" winch handle, which makes it easier.