Daggerboard slot cover

[dixonwj]

Shattered my large plate covering the daggerboard well aft of the tang. Thinking about replacing it with marine plywood. Anybody have any other thoughts?

[AllenDurow]

Mine is clear plastic. Lightweight and allows a visual of the centerboard/block and tackle.

Allen
Lift Ticket #513

[Jim Kloss]

Add some beer can holders.

Jim Kloss
s/v Ambivalence
S2 7.9 #8

[Stef]

I replaced mine with 5/16" thick aluminum plate powdercoated white. The forward one was already aluminum because the vang block & cleat are mounted to it. Was that way when I bought it and works for me.

[dave]

That's a good idea Stef.................................................... but I think that the holes for the screws need to be over drilled, filled and redrilled. Most of mine were "factory stripped" and I SURELY wouldn't trust them to hold any load without reworking them.

[dixonwj]

My aft piece lifted right out, the factory screws were stripped also. Powder coated aluminum sounds a little rich for my blood.I am currenly investigating plexiglass. Lexan sells for $55 for a 2 foot by 4 foot sheet.

[dave]

Many folks would be shocked and/or P'd off if they actually knew how many fiitings/holes on their boats are "factory prestripped"!

That's not a knock on the 7.9, they are ALL that way, and it makes no difference how much money you spend. I once removed every inch of teak toe rail from a J 30 because the client was sick and tired of constant and steady leaks in the deck/hull joint. There was just enough 3M 5200 under the rails that it took lots of time and a complete destruction of the rails to get them off, but as the pictures that I took proved, there was NO CAULKING over MOST of the machine screw heads and very little on the UPHILL [deck] side of the toe rails!!!!!! I'm not a college boy but the last time I checked, water still ran downhill ! I sent the pics to Tillotson Pearson as proof and asked them to at LEAST gives me some money off a new set of rails..............................................
As is ALWAYS the case with them, they refused, so the owner had to pay to fix something that was proven shoddy when it left the plant!!!!!

[James Odell]

Just finished making a set of replacements, used a white plastic cutting board, and cut two drinkholders in the aft one and one in the forward plate. Cost me $20 bucks and a few hours of time.

[dave]

That stuff is polypropylene or polyethylene. Neither one holds up for really long in UV, but you should be able to get a few seasons out of them before they crack.

Most of the high tech line on the market these days is UHMWPE [ultra high molecular weight polyethylene], a totally different animal indeed, which has good UV resistance. Most line menufacturers use some form of coating to make it even better in UV.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_high ... lyethylene

[Quinn McCarthy]

When ours broke I replaced ours with 1/4" lexan. They look like a million buck. We got the smokey clear which is tinted greyish brown.

You can jump all over them and they don't flex a bit.

Quinn

[dixonwj]

Home Depot wants $55 for a piece of lexan. I bought some 1/2" starboard at West for $30, a case of Sam Adams and still have money left from my $55 dollars.

[dave]

You can usually go to your local plastics outlet and coerce them into letting you rummage through their waste bin. The pieces for the CB trunk cover are very small, and most people would rather make ANY sale than no sail at all! They have all sizes and shapes of cut off waste in the back that they'll usually sell for some barter price.